Alright, so here's where I'm at....

I put the lead sleeve on the battery terminal and now have a snug connection. Check engine light is still on. Still the same 4 codes as above.

The car performs fine. The only indication that there is something wrong is that when I start the car from cold (hadn't been running), it idles high at around 2000RPM and blows smoke from the tailpipe for roughly 10-15 seconds. Then the RPMs drop to a normal 800-1000RPM, and the smoke dissipates.

This truck sat for about a year before I bought it and put in a new engine. Is it possible that there's something in the exhaust system that just needs to blow out? I'm going to give it some Seafoam this week and see what happens.

 

You mentioned before that the exhaust smelled rich. Gas in the catalytic converters makes smoke until the exhaust heats up. The only time I've had that situation is when I had a stick fuel injector (stuck open), dumping gas in he cylinder. But that would give you a misfire. A clogged injector might do the same insofar as the gas was coming out in a stream instead of a spray and not fully burned. I don't see any reason to believe you have that situation.

Did you figure out what plastic hose or plastic whatever melted in the SAI tube? It makes me wonder if a vacuum line or maybe wire sheath got zapped by the heat.

Seafoam in the gas tank is a good thing. I know I run counter to the wisdom here but every time I have put seafoam in the intake (induction method) I've had some other problem. But I have to admit that the rooster tail of white smoke is fun.

 

The SAI pumps air into the exhaust at startup to heat the cats up faster. Any issues in the plumbing there would sound like an exhaust leak. The P0444 code is your purge valve. This may also be the source of your fuel smell. Check the connector and wiring and the vacuum hose. With the high idle at startup, I would suspect a vacuum leak. The P0135 and P0155 are heater circuit problems with the upstream O2's which could be the wiring, and the P0154 is no activity on the passenger side upstream O2 sensor which could also be from damage. Take a close look at the wiring and connectors for the O2 sensors. Where those are located makes them an easy target during an engine swap.

 

P0135 and P0155 shows up when the O2 sensor is not connected or no information at all. Make sure the contacts are clean and CLICK when you snap the connectors. 0444 purge valve. I got 14 bucks from ebay used and it worked. Complete OME is around 300+.

 

If it is the purge valve, you can go the ebay route or use one from a Hyundai. Or you can be ultra cheap and do what this guy did: HowTo-> Evaporative Purge Valve test and repair!! Looks like a good way to put $75 worth of time and frustration into a $20 part.

 

Update:

I went over everything again over the weekend. Unclipped and re-clipped all of the plugs around the O2 sensors and the purge valve. The electronic clip at the purge valve was not connected...Plugged it in, drove for a bit, check engine light went away and stayed away. I just ran through the state inspection station, and am good to go. It appears that my initial post-engine swap pains have come to a conclusion. Not the truck though....there is no conclusion with Disco's. Just a next project/modification/break down....

 

Awesome. Good ending. Congratulations for figuring it out.