Codes - Obviously when I start school tomorrw... :(
I was at Wegman's (supermarket) when I went to turn on my car, and immediately I knew something was wrong. The RPM went up to about 1k, then dipped all the way down to ~100. The car did not stall, but I felt like it would. Well I shut it off, and turned it on again to have the same thing happen, and the SES light came on. The car has NO power between 600-1600 RPM, but above that it seems to be fine. At a stop light it sometimes would go down to ~400RPM at idle, and when I gave it gas it would accelerate and sputter a bit, then resume like normal.
Got the codes:
P0103
P1884
The guy at Advance said that the first was MAF/VAF A circuit high input, and the second was for a transmission.
Upon checking myself it seems the first is MAF sensor faulty, and the second is inputs/outputs out of range. Using the codes as a search tool, I found a buch of threads on this topic. The consensus seems to be to replace the MAF.
Knowing that I just want to make sure that I am using the proper logic in going ahead and buying a new MAF, and secondly, and probably most importantly, I want to make sure I get the proper MAF. Here is one that I found, is it good?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
Some background:
2002 D2, 89k. I have just had the oil changed, coolant drained and replaced, and brake fluid drained and replaced [All at the dealership, about 300 miles ago]. About 1k miles ago I put in a new air filter [OEM], did induction with seafoam via vacuum tube [as per instructions], and B22k fuel treatment.
MPG: since I have had the trunk (track using iphone app, real easy and nice):
may 14: 15.73 (Mostly hwy) - 194 miles
The rest are all mostly suburban driving
may 20: 13.92 - 131 miles
may 27: 14.04 - 196 miles
June 2: 13.45 - 149 miles
June 9: 12.50 - 150 miles
June 20: 12.72 - 202 miles
Just by looking at these numbers (and the graph on my phone), after May 27 the MPG started dropping a bit. I am not very concerned about this, but may help someone who knows complete the puzzle in their head. I know the drop could be due to driving habits, but I try to drive the same. Also, I only use sunoco 93 ultra.
Any thoughts? Anything I can do to test it? Unplug it?
Thanks,
Kevin
Got the codes:
P0103
P1884
The guy at Advance said that the first was MAF/VAF A circuit high input, and the second was for a transmission.
Upon checking myself it seems the first is MAF sensor faulty, and the second is inputs/outputs out of range. Using the codes as a search tool, I found a buch of threads on this topic. The consensus seems to be to replace the MAF.
Knowing that I just want to make sure that I am using the proper logic in going ahead and buying a new MAF, and secondly, and probably most importantly, I want to make sure I get the proper MAF. Here is one that I found, is it good?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
Some background:
2002 D2, 89k. I have just had the oil changed, coolant drained and replaced, and brake fluid drained and replaced [All at the dealership, about 300 miles ago]. About 1k miles ago I put in a new air filter [OEM], did induction with seafoam via vacuum tube [as per instructions], and B22k fuel treatment.
MPG: since I have had the trunk (track using iphone app, real easy and nice):
may 14: 15.73 (Mostly hwy) - 194 miles
The rest are all mostly suburban driving
may 20: 13.92 - 131 miles
may 27: 14.04 - 196 miles
June 2: 13.45 - 149 miles
June 9: 12.50 - 150 miles
June 20: 12.72 - 202 miles
Just by looking at these numbers (and the graph on my phone), after May 27 the MPG started dropping a bit. I am not very concerned about this, but may help someone who knows complete the puzzle in their head. I know the drop could be due to driving habits, but I try to drive the same. Also, I only use sunoco 93 ultra.
Any thoughts? Anything I can do to test it? Unplug it?
Thanks,
Kevin
Last edited by JavaDiscoII; Jun 27, 2010 at 04:10 PM.
continue to use paper air filters. You need a new Bosch MAF sensor IN THE LAND ROVER box. I'm not sure if that one you are linked to is what you need as it seems about half the price it should be... interesting find. Once you put the new MAF in clear the codes and you should be good to go.
Just to update: changed out MAF sensor and all is well.
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