Ok I got codes P1172 and P1175

Car: Land Rover Discovery II 2002
110,000 Miles

The car has this K&N airfilter does that even make a difference?

I think the codes is for a vacume leak? Where do I start inspecting for leaks?

The car starts on the 3rd try, always when the car is cold. Right after turning the car off though and igniting the engine the car starts. That gets annoying.

So I don't know what to do. The MAF was changed but the brand was not Bosch if that makes a difference I'll go buy a new one that is Bosch.

Even though this car wastes a lot of gas I still like the car for the beauty outside.

 

replace with paper airfilter immediately and genuine Bosch MAF only...K&N probably destroyed your original MAF...

 

Other than that what about the codes, and starting trouble?

Even after the MAF was replaced the car didn't start the first time.

 

So replacing the air filter and the sensor will fix the hard starts?

 

Honestly, I do not know. When was the last time you did DiscoMike's 60K service; what plugs and wires did you use? Did you swap in an original MAF? Have you replaced your O2 sensors (you mentioned wasting gas)? Are you using premium gas?

What codes do you have?

 

Replace the k&n and get the Bosch MAF. Classic codes. Check the air box for leaks. Make sure you don't have bad gas.

 

Ok I replaced the air filter now I'm just missing the Bosch MAF

Also the car makes cricket sounds when accelerating is that part of the codes? If not what is causing the cricket sounds?

 

Have you popped off the air box cover and taken a look? What does the K&N filter look like? Prob not been cleaned/charged in forever....just toss it and get a paper one as recommended and look for any holes/leaks as Spike recommended.

Cricket (chirping) sounds from underneath? That's your front drive shaft. That is way more important than the cold starts man. You need to get it rebuilt before it explodes on ya. Towards the back of the shaft are 2 u-joints formed together that make a "double-cardan" joint. Land rover screwed up and the joint is not serviceable (greasable), and being that they ran the catalytic converter super close to the drive shaft, toss the AC compressor draining on it, and it bakes all of the lubrication out of the shaft and you can't add any more....Yours is baked and binding, thus creating that sound.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...des/index.html

If you have access to a local drive shaft shop, you can order the simple parts and have them do it. Might make more economical sense for some people, for example the u-joints/center ball joint are 50-60 bucks or so for all of them (3 zerks, 1 ball), to have it rebuilt its 150-200 depending on the shop. Keep in mind some shops might not know what they are doing (rare but it happens). From everyone I had read on here that has rebuilt it themselves, all of them do not recommend it, nor would do it again, so that tells me it is not a simple job. For example, your might need a torch at least to unbind and remove your double-cardan if it's baked that bad...

If you do not want to mess with parts/shop etc, it's 350 for a brand new rebuilt one, 399 for a heavy duty (which is awesome btw, my personal favorite, I like the green color ). All you do at that point is simply remove the existing one and re-bolt the new one on. So that's the easiest route if you have the extra 100 bucks. Plus you know for a fact your getting a good solid shaft from a reputable company who builds them for a living.

Those are your 2 options if it is the drive shaft making that chirping sound. Don't wait too long on it.

Links to order one already built:

http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/cs_d...l#remanfrontd2

http://www.4xshaft.com/landrover.html