Once you get this running well enough you'll love it so much you'll end up with another...and then the fun really starts lol they are old so the work never stops but as you fix, refresh or replace more and more it doesn't take long until you know every little quirk and trick to keep them running. Not to mention you'll have first hand knowledge on when each part was replaced!

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I've had this particular truck for a little over a year, and also have a Defender 90, 4 door RRC and 2 door RRC, so I've definitely been bitten by the bug...

However, the late model D2s so seem a bit...fragile? Poorly re-engineered to meet fuel economy standards? Like they forced some modern tech onto an old platform just to keep selling them? Maybe I'm being a bit harsh.

The real question is, what would you guys do regarding cylinder 7 spark plug blow by? I've worked this plug hole for a few hours now, trying to smooth the seating face, etc. I have a copper washer I was thinking of putting in there to crush and fill the gap. I don't want to say it, but what about some sort of...high temp epoxy or "glue" to fill the small gap? Too sketchy?

 

Ooof... I wouldn't use any epoxy or glue as then... it will never come out and you def require the ability remove/reinstall plugs as maintenance going forward.

 

 

OK better news: I was able to clean up the spark plug seat and got in there and cleaned everything one more time (threads, vacuumed out the cylinder, etc). Plug properly threaded and seated, so that problem is sorted. Misfire codes also gone after a week of driving. I really do LOVE this truck, it's really great.

I have a few more small issues to fix that maybe the collective brain trust can help with:

Current codes:
SAI (Both sides)
Evap Air Canister Purge Flow

That plus I get intermittent 3 amigos...

At that point, i HOPE we have something sorted (thermostat fix done, coil packs relocated, new brakes, etc) that I can drive. The chassis is mint so I really look forward to keeping this car tight.

Thanks guys-

 

Great work man! I'm sure that you'll resolve the remaining issues and gather the courage to attack future codes and all!

 

Hey.

I bout this kit from a guy on Ebay. He is not currently selling them on Ebay but it turns out he lives only 1 hr away and I went there and pick one up. He has three buildings filled with Disco II parts. Just got tired of selling or doing it.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/334518239997]Disco II Coil relocation kit[/url]



I still haven't decided if I am going to put it on. How often do I need to change the coil or wires?


​​​​​​​Hobs

 

Well done all around! I last a little over 2 years before I had to have another D2 after selling my last one based on the boss not being happy about the time spent on it. The latest one(s) are now toys and I’ve changed my frame of mind for them to be as such. They really do have some poor design choices, but to be fair, many of those choices were to either cut costs or conform to increasing emissions requirements. Case in point is the SAI deal. Talk about a band aid nitwit idea not even remotely a component of the original design piece of garbage…

Anyway, getting to your remaining issues:

- SAI: If it’s both sides, I suspect you have have one or all of a few issues such as a vacuum leak in there somewhere, one or both of the valves (those silly looking hat thingies) are clogged or have failed, or the purge valve has failed. Post up the codes you are getting and I bet someone will be able to guide the appropriate direction.

- EVAP canister issue is probably back at the back end and has something to do with the filler neck or the like. I’m not sure on that so I could be off base. Do some googling (every search should start with “Land Rover Discovery 2…) and I’d be positive in 10 seconds you’ll have guidance.

- Amigos: these are a total joke to fix and so ridiculously documented, a 3rd grader could diagnose and fix them. First order of business is to determine the source. A proper scan tool (Nanocom is my weapon of choice) is a hard requirement for diving deep into Disco masochism. Once you determine if it’s a WSS, hub, shuttle valve, or all of the above, you are set. If it’s a WSS, I wouldn’t bother based on effort and cost and would just replace an entire hub as they aren’t too expensive and will probably outlast the frame. The scan tool will tell you which corner is the issue. If it is the shuttle valve, then again engage Google fu for “Option B” and you’ll find out how to easily bypass the design flaw while retaining all the OEM function. It’s best to do this with a brand new shuttle valve, which seems dumb to hack a new part, but it has been proven to work perfectly for well over a decade as near as I know. The last component has to do with the WSS. This will sound nuts, but the factory determined that sometimes the source of issues could be the resistance across the plug for the WSS. So the fixed developed for this is to run the wire directly all the way from the hub all the way to where it plugs into the SLABS box. Yes, that sounds insane, but I’ve done it to perfect success on my last D2s and it’s not as hard as you might think.

When you get ticked off at it and feel like giving up, put it in time out and let it rest for a bit. I have to do that with mine from time to time as I get frustrated and just want it to work, but when I walk away from it, I eventually come up with good solutions and am able to get it to work better than if I rushed and did everything in anger. I have been saying for some time, it takes at least a year of pretty constant attention to find and address all the design flaws and neglect/ignorance from previous owners. Once you get past those hurdles, it’s just keeping a 20 year old vehicle running and you replace as you go just like any other used vehicle.