Hello LR Peeps! I am 5 days new to Land Rovers following my newest addition to the fam; a 2002 DII, and I'm stoked to ride/drive/own this fine piece of fun and to be apart of a seemingly great community of enthusiasts and humans! I had the chance to read some of the forum posts and have noticed a great sense of comradery and insight. My first of I'm sure a lifetime of questions to broaden the scope of my understanding is:

Can someone either give me an accurate, simple to follow explanation complete with picture steps, tools and parts of how to replace the spark plugs and wires on a 2002 DII using the 2-3 hour method as apposed to the 5.5 hour method? Or show me where to go to get?

Brief background info- I have read that there are two ways to perform the following tasks, 1) remove top portion of engine components to freely access plugs/wires <estimated time of procedure: ~5.5 hrs> 2) maneuver around the components and complete task without component removal <estimated time of procedure: 2-3 hrs>

Also, I have purchased a set of 8 Bosch Platinum +4 plugs and 8mm Magnicore wires.

Thanx for your help!

 

I don't know whom or where quoted you for those times but I removed the intake plenum off mine to do wires and replaced the entire coil pack while I was there and it took under 2 hours. There is a post similar to this that was just asked as well. You can do 1 wire at a time and you can wiggle out wires from the coil pack without taking the upper intake off though I find it easier to remove it. To each their own.

 

Before I picked up the DII I had a pre-purchase inspection performed and the "5.5 hrs" is what they quoted to replace the plugs and wires. Mechanics hours have a tendency to be a little inflated... I have meat hooks for hands and after inspecting the space it seems you would have to be a dual left handed hobbit to get back there. Do you think I should replace the coil pack while I do the wires?

Also, do I need to use any lubricant/special tools with the plugs/wires?

Please forgive my nube-ness, and thanks for the help

 

No need to replace the coil unless you know its a problem. It is a $250+ part. I only mentioned it because mine was an issue.

You just need your standard 5/8 spark plug socket and a socket set with some extensions. Maybe a telescoping rod magnet to get the front plenum bolt but I didn't have an issue with just using a socket. As far as dielectric grease, only on the plug side, don't put any on the coil connectors. Make sure you carefully hand turn all plugs so you don't cross thread and torque properly each plug (20 Nm/15 ft-lb). Don't just throw a plug in the socket and crank away else you could do some damage.

I'm not sure why people skip the removing the plenum step since you still have to remove most of the stuff regardless (icv and tubing, maf and tubing, etc) Whet you have left after that is 6 bolts and a few easy to remove hoses (intake breather, evap hose, throttle body heater hoses). I guess if you trained your 5 year old to change the plugs on the coil or you have tiny hands it can be done quicker, but not by much imo. The only reason I could see is saving yourself from ruining the plenum gasket but those can be reused as long as they're not too mashed up. It is a little trickier if you have sai installed but only adds an other step or 2.

 

Thanks for the detailed response!. As soon as my wires come in I'll throw them in and let you know how it goes.

Thanks for your time and help!

 

Where did you find the 8mm magnecor wires?

 

I ordered them here:

OMP Sport, HANS Device, SA2010 Racing Helmets, Necksgen, Schroth Harness, Stilo Helmets, Cobra Seats

 

Sorry it doesn't look like my link stuck.

I ordered the wires from the apex performance website.

apexperformance.net/

 

this is an old post put it's still explians how to do replace your wires with out taking the IM off

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oving-im-9657/

Hope it helps

 

Thanks for the link Reeves!

I replaced the wires and plugs without taking off the IM and me truck is running strong!

In addition to a diagram of the coil pack/wires and valve location as well as the link from Reeves, here are a few things I would recommend to the next Rover Enthusiast for this project:

1) Remove the stabilizing bracket for the tube(s) between the SAI valves in its entirety from the IM. It is just two bolts at the base of the bracket.

2) When pulling out the tube(s) between the SAI valves, like the thread linked through reeves states, move the tube to the drivers side first, Then wiggle out to the passenger side. I unclipped the wire housing above the engine compartment along the seal and laid it on the IM. Next I cleared the "two tube" section of the SAI valve pipe of the hoses on the passenger side of the engine and firewall. Then through a twisting motion of the SAI pipe(s) toward the front of the disco I maneuvered the "two-tube" section out from underneath the "lip" of the engine compartment. Finally, I removed the pipe(s) pulling out the "two-tube" section first and rotating until the other portion of the pipe became free over the top of the IM and wiring housing.

3) I am 6'2 200lbs, and have large-xlarge hands. I found it easiest to remove the wires and install the new ones from the passenger and driver sides of the engine compartment rather than going in from the front. At times I used a small step-latter for a little more leverage and primarily used my hands and patience. Also, the new wires respond a lot better to finesse and a lighter touch than I had imagined when installing on the coil packs. I would recommend that if a wire is giving you a little trouble when seating it, try to move the rubber "boot" from side to side (rotating clockwise or counterclockwise) while on the coil outlet and press semi-firmly. The click you will hear/feel when it is set was lighter/softer than I had anticipated. But what a sweet sound it was

Again, thanks for everyones help and insight!

Warm Regards,

James