Good idea, keeps them cool upfront in the airstream the only problem is special cables to the spark plugs but you cannot win everything.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...ks-pics-82435/



just did something similar on mine. I like your mounting position better. I intend to build two brackets and move mine to either side of the upper intake, mounting to the two studs that normally support the SAI valves. For future reference, i built my wires myself for about $40. Not sure what you spent to have yours made but i wanted to be sure that i could source wires from any hardware store in the event of an emergency.

 

King, I saw yours that time as well. The only difficulty with my engine is the SAI, I think I need to keep it since I always have some sort of problems with inspection here. I'm not familiar removing it in the system. There is no room. At first I thought of mounting it in the middle of the manifold. I got the proper air scoop already so I can cut a hole on the hood and facing it backwards. But I didnt continue the work. Thats the only way to fit the coils in the middle. I cant mount them on the side coz the SAI tubes are in the way.
I design a lot of photo and video brackets for pro use on the side and just for fun, I had this made and cost me 55 + gas, lol, for the material and bending. Not cheap but might and might keep me from getting paranoid each time I do tuneup and still misfires. hehe
You're right about the wires, I could go your way but you have to post some pictures of step by step how to splice those HT wires bro. Please do it, custom wires are expensive. That if you get the chance, hahaha

 

I know I am new to this forum but definitely not new to working on cars and modding cars.


I just replaced the sparkplug wires and plugs on my Disco 2.


1. New Magnecore wires: $135.00
2. Throttle Body Gasket $3.00
3. Upper Intake Manifold Gasket $18.00


3-4 hours of my labor to pull UIM and replace wires...


Now the wires are changed, they will not be a concern for many miles to come.


Anyone who is concerned about changing wires, should definitely pull the UIM. Much easier to get your hands in there and be sure connections are properly made. Doing it without pulling UIM is very hard unless you have child hands and like to "wonder" if your plug wires are on correctly.


While I agree that whoever "originally" put the coil pack back there is sadistic... not sure if it is worth the effort to move now seeing how easy it is to replace the wires the "proper" way.

 

I agree with you mostly, but allow me to play devils advocate.

lets say you remove the UIM, change the wires, button it up and now you still have or have a new misfire.

do you rip the UIM off again to check your connections?

 

First, I am new working on cars and I'm not even sure what UIM means. I replaced my head gasket 2 months ago and it was fun. I did change the coil in my other disco last year and it was not fun for a novice. Magnecor even have an instruction that wires last the lifetime of the car but inspect coils and plugs regularly. It cost me $560.00 each time I had tune up with a rover specialist not even sure if coils were changed. Still few months after got misfires and went really bad that I had problems with the cats. Tried to learn through this forum and so far doing well. Mulitple failed codes cant pass inspection but after long struggle, I passed it.
So to make a long story short. My trucks are old and need more maintenance each year. My goal is to join the 300k club, lol. If there is something to make it more easier for non seasoned mechanic, few extra dollars vs time, this mod wont hurt. But wait, I'm not even done yet to see if it will work. At the end, its the challenge and all the fun doing it. Cheers

 

Sorry for confusion. UIM is upper intake manifold.

Also, with concern of removing UIM replacing wires, put it all back and still have misfire... I see your point.

In the 3-4 hours it took to do the job, I pulled all plug wires, pulled the coil pack, and then cleaned all the connections of any corrosion, added some dielectric grease, and then reinstalled everything making 100% sure the connection between the plug wire and the coil was good.

The Magnecore wires are not the most convincing that they are inserted correctly. If you "****" the connector even slightly they don't engage. Peace of mind was looking right at the coil pack and verifying plug wire engaged.

Also during this job is a perfect time to change leaking valve cover gaskets if needed, and pull out injectors and have them ultrasonic cleaned...if needed.


Now being the car craftsman that I am... If you do remote coil pack, please solder the extension wires and put "marine type" heat shrink on the soldered connections. I have had many problems in the past with crimp connections and or electrical tape.

 

i wouldn't necessarily recommend doing something like this just out of the blue. but if you have the heads or even lower intake off for any reason, i think its a no brainer.

I think a reliable off road vehicle should be easy as possible to work on in awkward places.

 

this is what i did, but it would seem that there is at least one place that manufactures coil pack extension harnesses and had i known of them i would have probably gone that route. That being said, I'm confident in my handiwork and I'm also a stickler for wiring.

 

BTW, the bracket you made to mount your coil pack looks great!