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Coilpack Question

Old Feb 19, 2015 | 04:43 PM
  #21  
MyRoversNameIsCarl's Avatar
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One thing I would suggest if you pull the coil packs out the 2 lower bolts are a pain to get back in. A grabber tool is useful for guiding them in the hole and an 8mm universal socket for bolting them in.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2015 | 09:25 PM
  #22  
mln01's Avatar
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I agree those two lower coil pack bracket bolts can be a challenge. I "shimmed" the inside of my socket with some masking tape. That gripped the bolt nicely yet obviously allowed the socket to be removed easily once the threads grabbed and the bolt was tightened down.

I just realized that's the second time today I've use the word shimmed in a post here.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 03:38 PM
  #23  
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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2000 D2 approx 170,000 miles.

I have a #5 misfire (P0305- flashing CEL when driving). Changed wires and plugs and also did compression test. 150.
Planning on tackling the coil packs this weekend. I guess I have small hands because I had no issues changing the plug wires in the back. It was a bit tight but the entire job took me less then and hour. I also didn't remove anything to get at them.

I was gonna take a shot at replacing the coils without removing the I.M.

The coil pack I've purchased is a complete kit with both coils and a new bracket.

My question is: Should I attempt to replace the bracket with both new coils or just tackle each coil and use the old bracket?

Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 06:01 PM
  #24  
lordmorpheus's Avatar
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I too was able to get behind the IM with my smallish hands. If you have both coils on the new bracket, I don's see why you wouldn't just install the whole thing in one shot.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 06:40 PM
  #25  
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I read somewhere, someone saying that the bracket would not come out unless you removed the I.M. I can't really tell in the RAVE as they only show it with the I.M. removed.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MyRoversNameIsCarl
One thing I would suggest if you pull the coil packs out the 2 lower bolts are a pain to get back in. A grabber tool is useful for guiding them in the hole and an 8mm universal socket for bolting them in.
I also use magnetic 1/4" drive sockets and long extensions for small awkward bolts, I think the socket set came from the US or Germany. They are basically a socket with an embedded magnet at the top. No good for non ferrous bolts though
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 12:08 PM
  #27  
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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I hate to suggest this but if the lower bolts are such a pain couldn't they just be left out?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 01:29 PM
  #28  
cybercop's Avatar
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I think the coil pack relocation kit is located in the same magical hills as the Unicorn!

Even if you did find a good kit, what wires would you buy?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 01:52 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by toofaroffroad
I hate to suggest this but if the lower bolts are such a pain couldn't they just be left out?
When I did my wires, I either lost, or was missing 2 of the coil pack bolts. I only put 2 back...probably the easier ones. As long as it isnt bouncing around back there it is probably fine.

Let me know if the coils fix your misfire. I have a P0306 and new wire + swapping the plug from #4 didnt change anything. I thought the coils fail in pairs, but if yours fixes it, Ill probably go ahead and do the coil.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 12:53 AM
  #30  
toofaroffroad's Avatar
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Pinkytoe69, I thought the same thing. I figured if it's a coil then you'd probably have more then 1 cylinder misfire. Look hard enough on these forums and you'll find dozens of theories.

I was thinking aslo MAF or maybe O2 Sensor or even sticky lifters. but if it was any of these I would guess that they would cause it over time and not consistent to one cylinder.
I've replaced wires and plugs and done compression test and I'm getting a hard 0305. It comes on right away after clearing and it flashes on and off when you start driving.

I'll update after hitting it this weekend.
 
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