Apologies for the pictures not showing. They are all below and in order. It took me over an hour to make this thread so I will try and fix later.

Hi All,

Recently I had to replace my door lock motors on my DII and found enough information here and there to complete the job. I though I would post the complete walkthrough of how I replaced the regular motor. I did not replace the stupid superlock motors since I don't use that feature, so I do not have a part number for that motor. Also, I will not cover how to remove the actuators from the doors. For future generations, this was done in 2018 and the OEM motors are no longer available from Johnson motors unless you order a million at a time.

What you need:

New motor: Part # FC-280PC 22125 with a 20mm long round shaft
Hacksaw
Epoxy
Metal File
Some screwdrivers and some star drivers

Step 1 is to TAKE A PICTURE. For real, you need to know how this thing goes back together...you will forget. I circled the important places to focus on when putting back together:

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Step 2 - Remove the 4 screws and one post. Be gentle with the post if you want to put it back in. If not (I didn't) have at it. Also unhook the white plastic thing by screw #4.

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Step 3 - Carefully pry the metal sides to allow the nubby things to release from the holes:

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Step 4 - Separate the two pieces with some finesse.

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Step 5 - Using every ounce of patience, release each of the white clips. Seriously, break them all off...you may succeed in saving one or two, but 4 screws will hold it together. Once apart, check out the insides and remove the motor marked "regular". Also notice broken clips in the picture.

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Step 6 - Admire the old motor and the new motor.

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Step 7 - Now remove the pressed on worm gear from the old motor. DO NOT bend the shaft. Not only is it painful, but you need it for later on. I used some pliers, a vise, and a big hammer. Don't mangle the gear either, you need it. You can bang the crap out of the motor, that's trash.

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Step 8 - Notice the length of the new vs. the old shafts. The new is 20mm and the old is 26mm or so.

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Step 9 - Do some math. We are going to butt two shafts inside the worm gear to make a new shaft 26mm (or so) long. We want to cut the new shaft a bit so we have enough space for the additional shaft. This is how much I cut. File the shaft on the motor end smooth.

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Step 10 - Now cut the OLD shaft. Cut the whole thing off. File the cut end smooth.

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Step 11 - Look at the parts of your new motor you will build

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Step 12 - Using a clothespin, or whatever you have around, mix some epoxy.

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Step 13 - Put some epoxy on the OLD shaft where the knurling is located

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Step 14 - Push the worm gear onto the shaft about halfway. Use a hammer if needed, but don't bend the shaft.

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Step 15 - Scuff up the shaft on the new motor with sandpaper or something to help the epoxy hold. Put epoxy on the new motor shaft. Then put the worm gear on the shaft until it butts up against the old shaft you inserted in the previous step. Make sure to leave the right amount of space between the motor and the gear. Use the superlock as a guide. DO NOT USE A HAMMER OR HIT THE NEW MOTOR TOO HARD - THEY ARE FRAGILE - IT SHOULD PUSH ON EASILY OR WITH A FEW MINOR TAPS. Let dry (or set).

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Step 16 - Lay the new motor in place and mark where the shaft should end.

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Step 17 - Make the cut and install new motor. The motor MUST turn freely. If it's too tight, file the shaft shorter. NOW IS A GOOD TIME TO CHECK THE MOTOR. Hook it up and see if the motor turns strong when you lock and unlock.

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Step 18 - Assuming the motor is working, put the cover back together (you know, the one with all the broken tabs). Note the photo is showing where the two worm gears are located. Make sure the gears don't cover these or you wont get the two pieces back together.

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Step 19 - Insert the 4 screws and tighten them down snug. Do not install the post. Check the functionality again.

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Step 20 - Start putting back together. Remember to look at your first picture, and the areas I have circled in the first picture of this thread and align the two pieces. Note the stubby things and holes and make sure you are aligned.

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Step 21 - Before you freak out because you cant get them together, check out the next two pictures that show two tabs that need to slide through the metal piece. You need to put pressure on the two pieces to align the tabs before they push together. Reminder - LOOK AT PICTURE 1 AND MAKE SURE THE THREE AREAS CIRCLED ARE CORRECT.

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Step 22 - Unless you want to mess with the post, you can leave it out. I did not reinstall mine and I have locked and unlocked my car at least 5 or 6 times. Seriously, it's been almost a year since I did the barn door and it's fine.

That it. I will post the first picture again below because that's what it's supposed to look like when it's done.


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Good luck and peace.
Jamie

 

Good thread. I have found it easier to just take the brush holder off the tail of the new motor and put it on the old motor - no shaft splicing needed. You do have to drill two small holes to hold the brushes back when installing the new brush holder.

Brushes are much too tiny to mess with for me, but some of you surgeons out there might attempt it.

The brushes are what wears out in the old motors. I just pry back the retainers on the motor housing, pull the brush holder off, drill the holes needed to hold the brushes back during installation, then bend the retainers back in after installing.

I tried one of the gear/shaft splicing repairs - I guess I did it wrong because it did not hold for long.

 

Very cool! Thanks for sharing. Those small motors are certainly cheaper than a new assembly. I agree with changing out the shaft as opposed to shaft surgery.

 

Where did you buy the motors?

 

They are available on eBay, I think you search on Lexus.