Site is up now. Confused about the Port up or Port down for sensor. I have not removed the current thermostat, is there a sensor in it? what do I need. No number on website to call that I could see.

Just ordered the 4 way coolant hose from carrs4x4. Want to get this inline kit and will probably just replace the waterpump while I have it tore down

 

also, what is everyones opinion about going to green coolant versus dexacool. I know years back all the cool kids were talking about it. Might as well flush since I am basically rebuilding the entire coolant system

 

I wouldn't worry about the sensor port for now, just install with the port facing down. You can monitor coolant temp with an ultragauge, scangauge or something like the TorquePro app and OBD2 bluetooth adapter. You can private message Extinct or post a reply to the inline thermostat sticky thread.

 

My daughter drives this truck and I haven't have a ultragauge on this one. I tell here to watch the temp guage like a hawk (which is pretty much cold, good, and screwed). Will the gauges work without the sensor?

 

D2 was my daughters first car, I told her the same but installed an aftermarket gauge. I highly recommend the ultragauge, it has programmable alarms that will be almost impossible for her to ignore. You don't need the sensor up configuration for that. I used this gauge for my daughters, has coolant temp and oil pressure in one, also programmable but lights flash and no audible alarm. Does require external sensor installation. https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/...mperature.html Factory gauge is useless. It doesn't move until 140, then goes to normal position at 150, stays there till it reachs 230, then goes to the red at 250. Good time to flush and use green coolant.

 

Your factory gauge will continue working with the inline thermostat kit; the port on the new thermostat housing is only in case you want to add your own dedicated coolant temp gauge. As far as coolant, green is fine and what most of us run; just make sure you flush out all the dexcool.

 

At the bottom of most (maybe all) water pumps is a small hole that will start weeping coolant out when the water pump seal is beginning to fail.

 

OK, COMPLETELY rebuilt the coolant system, hoses and all. Put the Extinct Inline Thermostat mod that deletes one of the tee hoses and then put in the splice to remove the original thermostat.

Also replaced the 4 way plastic piece which I think is where the leak was coming from with a aftermarket aluminum one (Thanks CARS4x4).

Also replace the coolant reservoir, water pump and am now replacing all the dexacool with the green stuff.

I am toping off with distilled water, run up to temp with the air on hot and high. Once it gets up to temp, remove lower radiator hose, drain, reattach, repeat.

I've got it where this a small orange haze in the reservoir, but is that good enough? Should I just keep going until clear? Am I missing something?

Also, without the bleeder screw/valve, how do you bleed the system properly?

 

I would flush it out via the heater hoses...there is a kit at most autoparts stores that will allow you to attach your garden hose; if you only want to use distilled water then you have to get creative with a pond/aquarium pump and some hose/adapters.

Inline thermostat bleeding:

1. Once you have the new hardware installed, refill the system with coolant through the bottle till the bottle is full.
2. Start the engine with the overflow tank cap off.
3. Let the engine come up to temperature until the thermostat opens. The gauge should read in the middle of the range and the new thermostat housing will be warm/hot to the touch.
4. Rev the engine to 2500 rpm with the truck in park for 45 seconds. This will push all of the air in the system to the coolant bottle.
5. Put the cap on the coolant bottle. I recommend running it one turn off of full tight to prevent building pressure and blowing hoses or radiator end tanks (frequent issue on 15+ year old hoses).

 

Close, official instructions here: D2 Inline Thermostat bleeding instructions