yes, I have a great idea. Buy yourself an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge. When your factory LR dash cluster gauge begins moving, the coolant temp is at 240 degrees. You don't want your coolant temp much over 200f, much less 250. You are going to damage to your engine if you aren't careful and start doing some research. There are a dozen different things that can cause the engine to overheat. If you have coolant on the ground, that's what is happening...engine overheat. It is an aluminum block engine with aluminum cyl heads. it doesn't take much to distort or crack either of them, not to mention the irreparable damage to the head gaskets.


The first thing you have to do is find out exactly where the leak is coming from and report back with that information if you would like more guidance. But in any event, if there is a coolant leak, find out what is leaking by inspecting closely with the engine running and shortly after it is cut off. if it is not leaking at this point, or just can't tell where the leak is coming from because of a hidden location, you will have to pressurize the cooling system while adding a UV dye to the coolant.

 

If you're confident the coolant is escaping from the reservoir replace the reservoir cap. They are designed to hold 15 lbs of pressure but fail when they get old. They're something like $15 and available at any auto parts store.

Now, on top of that what others have said is correct --- if the temp gauge is anywhere above the middle of its scale your truck is running too hot. Many of us use the UltraGauge to keep a close, accurate eye on coolant temps and other important data.

Good luck.

 

I have a similar situation for my 2003 Disc 2.

I just replaced a worn water pump (bearing are gone on the pump), at the same time, replaced thermostat, idle pulleys, tension pulleys and serpentine belt. I bleed the coolant ensured no air left...


I started the engine, all appeared normal, but after taking a 40min drive, I open the hood, notice that coolant are boiling and came out from the reservoir overflow pipe. The temp gauge on the panel still pointed at the middle. I touch the upper hose, it felt hot.


reading the posts here, I plan to get a UltraGauge, and get a new reservoir tank cap.


What else?

 

I'd say do nothing more until you see what happens after you change the reservoir cap. If coolant escapes from the overflow after that we can talk then about next steps.

 

@mln01, Thanks!

I'm waiting for the reservoir cap from Napa auto parts. Will update later.

 

Replaced with a new expansion tank cap, I also flushed the coolant a second time just to be sure (while waiting for the cap to come)

so far all looked good. I used ultra gauge to monitor the coolant temperature, it varies between 190-204 mostly in the mid 190s.

 

+1 on the Ultra Gauge. For $80 it's a great preventer of ruining you engine. Along with all the other information it spits out.

 

tonydliu - I'm having the same issue. Did you fix it?

 

I would try replacing the reservoir cap first. Make sure to only try one thing at a time so you know what solves the problem.

My truck has great coolant temps, and a properly working coolant system. But every now and then after the truck was at operating temp for a long period of time, coolant would come out of the overflow on the reservoir. Only after the motor had heat soaked and gotten even hotter just after shutting off. (My coolant temps are always below 200, max I have seen was 215 idling with ac on for 20 minutes with worn out fan clutch and no ac compressor fan).

I recently replaced the overflow gasket and now my truck never loses any coolant through the overflow on the reservoir. Temps are also more stable. Before the cap I changed the fan clutch and the a/c fan.

Long story short, spend $5 on the overflow cap before assuming the worst. Like others said, get an aftermarket gauge to read engine temps.