Coolant Running 215-228 according to OBDII. Problem?
I replaced the previous water pump because of "noise". When I took the belt off the fan you could "wiggle" the fan, pivoting it inside the pump. My concern now is that pieces/parts/ball bearings are in the radiator and circulation is compromised.
209F max at idle was normal with the stock thermostat. With the inline mode I get max 200F for very short periods only. Did you flush the radiator and hoses to get potential debris out? How old is the radiator? If it is the original one I would get a new one in no question. Nissens is the recommended brand.
Good move on new radiator. At this age, it needs it. Nissens is a good one - I run one in my truck, as well as my Volvos. Also recommend flushing the system and running generic green coolant. Dexcool clogs everything and gels up - I hate that crap.
That's a good option to consider. A properly functioning stock cooling system with a 180-degree t-stat is good enough for most situations, and it gets me by without issues, but for towing or lots of driving in mountainous areas, it's definitely something to think about
Unless your truck somehow still has the original coolant, running new Orange Dexcool stuff won’t have the disastrous effects you’ll read about if you Google Dexcool.
Last edited by arains44; Aug 21, 2023 at 03:10 PM.
Just for the benefit of the community, modern Dexcool DOES NOT turn into sludge and destroy your cooling system if/when exposed to air like the original Dexcool. It’s been reformulated since then. I researched it quite closely when I bought my D2 with Orange Dexcool coolant in it.
Unless your truck somehow still has the original coolant, running new Orange Dexcool stuff won’t have the disastrous effects you’ll read about if you Google Dexcool.
Unless your truck somehow still has the original coolant, running new Orange Dexcool stuff won’t have the disastrous effects you’ll read about if you Google Dexcool.


