Who has a parts list for the bleeder tee on steroids? I want to make one of those.

 

Thanks!

 

This is from a message that primussucks sent to me, so give him credit!

Here is a list of parts I put together for another forum.

1x 1" Black Pipe Tee
3x 1"x3 1/2" Black Pipe Nipple
1xBrass valve thing (don't have a link)

You'll need a tap and drill to thread the valve in. I drilled mine slanted on the side, so my hood would still close.

Some clear tubing if you want to bleed into a bucket, rather then your engine bay

6x1 1/2" host clamps.

I used teflon thread tape on all the threads.

I threaded the 3 1/2" nipples into the black tee, then sawed them in half. Leaving about 1-1 1/2" of exposed pipe on each end of the tee. Basically I cut the threads off the side the hose slips on to. Filed the edges down a little as not to rip open the hoses. You might want to get some of the grey high temp "Right Stuff" and put it around the threads on the tee side... Kind of like caulk (that is where I was leaking and subsequently had to add this... no more leaks)

Put some clamps, and done.

 

Thank you.

 

Hello all . I am in need of the same help bleeding the cooling system on my 2001 disco ii

 

what do you need help with exactly?

 

Mo,

There seems to be steps and quite a few variation on how to bleed the system correctly.
I guess its open bleed valve near radiator, fill the reservoir and let the coolant out thru the bleed until its a solid flow of coolant.

 

Yup you got it, one thing you should do is pull out the coolant tank and suspend it from the hood with a rope, then open bleed screw and fill until a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, quickly put the screw back in, make sure you have enough coolant in the tank so it does not look empty when you put the screw in, put tank back in place, top up as needed and then check again the next morning. easy as pie

 

And when the factory T no longer is in good shape, the plumbing aisle has the old school parts. Note bubbles in drain line of pix. Don't stop at first few bubbles, there will be more.

I have always wondered if a clever DIY plumber could construct a "trap" to caputure the bubbles as they circulate to the heater core. This would keep them out of the engine (where they can be compressed and maybe allow gaskets to have un-even pressure against them) and keep the heat transfer of engine where it needs to be. The excess bubbles could be valved off (weekly, daily, or in some cases minute by minute). The continued formation of new bubbles would be a stong indicator that you need to be putting money in the old fruit jar to save up for repairs not mentioned to SWMBO.

 

Hi to all,

I have a 99 Discovery II and need some help. I have read the posts here in this thread and followed them but I still have the "waterfall" sound whenever Im accelerating with the engine rpms at around 1800 to 2000 rpms. How do I remove the air in the heater lines. I noticed that the two metal pipes are high points in the engine and it seems to trap air pockets in these pipes to and from the heater core.

Any more tips to get the rest of the air out? I tried to angle the front end of the Disco up(dont know if this helps). I changed the coolant and it didnt have the "waterfall" sound before.