Coolant system refill
#1
#2
Definitely bleed it. Pop the reservoir out of its mount and sit it on top of the battery. Open the reservoir and remove the bleed screw in the T. Fill the reservoir until coolant comes out of the bleed screw then reinsert the screw. Slap the reservoir back down in its mount, top it off, put the cap back on. Now wiggle your lines around to get any bubbles all the way up to the bleeder. It helps to also work the hoses so any trapped bubbles work their way to the bleeder by making sure the hoses are a direct incline leading up to the bleeder. Make sure the reservoir cap is on. Remove the bleeder screw again. There is probably a bubble there. Make a tiny paper funnel by rolling a sheet of paper. Sit it in the bleed valve, allowing a gap outside the funnel for air to come out, and use a bottle of water to top it off. There should be no air in your system now. I've never had any bubbles left using this procedure. Be sure to do this with the engine cold.
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Sixwinged (07-01-2016)
#4
It is a good thing you caught this. Bleed system as described and watch like a hawk. If you have a coolant leak, you will need to spend a lot of time and possibly a lot of money tracking it down and repairing it. Sometimes you have to bleed more than once, so don't panic right away. Wait 10 minutes then panic.
#6
You should be checking for coolant leaks and coolant fill-level every time that you drive it and before you start it up every morning until you are sure there is no leak, or when you have discovered the origin if there is one. D2 runs on the warm side anyway and has no objections to overheating should it have any excuse to do so. I would keep a healthy paranoia as that coolant went somewhere but where and how fast is your new fact-finding mission.
#7
recently i acquired a 2004 HSE. vehicle was about a quart low on oil and coolant level was low but not empty. i scheduled to have the vehicle serviced but first available date is not until 11th. i purchased dexcool and quart of 10w40 just to get me through until all the services are completed. should i be concerned that i did not bleed the system or since it was not completely empty not an issue?
my plan is do an oil change and coolant flush on the first visit, then schedule for plugs, wires, pads, rotors, brake fluid. currently have a low (?) idle that causes the vehicle to vibrate like it has bad engine mounts (not sure if it that is the root cause but that is the only thing i can use to describe the vibration) warm engine rpm 738-750 with air conditioner on in drive foot on brake. same situation without ac 650-680 (664 most common). i am going to wager plugs and wires possibly rotor/cap but anything else that should be tackled at 74k miles?
my plan is do an oil change and coolant flush on the first visit, then schedule for plugs, wires, pads, rotors, brake fluid. currently have a low (?) idle that causes the vehicle to vibrate like it has bad engine mounts (not sure if it that is the root cause but that is the only thing i can use to describe the vibration) warm engine rpm 738-750 with air conditioner on in drive foot on brake. same situation without ac 650-680 (664 most common). i am going to wager plugs and wires possibly rotor/cap but anything else that should be tackled at 74k miles?
#8
#9
OK. Now you need to listen for the "waterfall". When you are in the car and it is running or you have just shut it off, listen for a running water sound that will come from the front passenger area by the footwell. This is where the heater core is. If you hear it, you still have some air in the system. Keep watching the expansion tank.
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Sixwinged (07-01-2016)