Coolant system refill
#12
If you can't do it yourself have your mechanic do it, & don't listen to them if they say your truck calls for dexcool, insist on flush & green coolant,, most everyone here has replaced dexcool to green with great results ,,
If you are doing a system flush & have OEM thermostat, also replace with at least a genuine gray 180*,,,,( if not going with inline setup,, ).
#13
thanks for the help for everyone. i only topped off with the dexcool because that is what was in the system, i assumed dexcool is better than low or no coolant at all. $16 on a bottle to top off on is a hell of a lot better than several thousand on a new motor.
i will request the service to be performed with the green coolant. in addition to the updated thermostat. where may i purchase one?
i will request the service to be performed with the green coolant. in addition to the updated thermostat. where may i purchase one?
#14
Few places will have the genuine gray 180, but I would try calling "lucky8" first, they will even give forum members a discount,,,,
Make sure to get rid of that waterfall sound right away by bleeding system, as I mentioned dexcool doesn't like air in system and crysallizes, (not to mention high temp, because of air)
Make sure to get rid of that waterfall sound right away by bleeding system, as I mentioned dexcool doesn't like air in system and crysallizes, (not to mention high temp, because of air)
The following 2 users liked this post by Bom2oo2:
CollieRover (07-03-2016),
iconoclast (07-03-2016)
#15
recently i acquired a 2004 HSE. vehicle was about a quart low on oil and coolant level was low but not empty. i scheduled to have the vehicle serviced but first available date is not until 11th. i purchased dexcool and quart of 10w40 just to get me through until all the services are completed. should i be concerned that i did not bleed the system or since it was not completely empty not an issue?
my plan is do an oil change and coolant flush on the first visit, then schedule for plugs, wires, pads, rotors, brake fluid. currently have a low (?) idle that causes the vehicle to vibrate like it has bad engine mounts (not sure if it that is the root cause but that is the only thing i can use to describe the vibration) warm engine rpm 738-750 with air conditioner on in drive foot on brake. same situation without ac 650-680 (664 most common). i am going to wager plugs and wires possibly rotor/cap but anything else that should be tackled at 74k miles?
my plan is do an oil change and coolant flush on the first visit, then schedule for plugs, wires, pads, rotors, brake fluid. currently have a low (?) idle that causes the vehicle to vibrate like it has bad engine mounts (not sure if it that is the root cause but that is the only thing i can use to describe the vibration) warm engine rpm 738-750 with air conditioner on in drive foot on brake. same situation without ac 650-680 (664 most common). i am going to wager plugs and wires possibly rotor/cap but anything else that should be tackled at 74k miles?
#16
no codes at all. scanned every day last week. not one code just a rough idle.
I will reach out to them today.
Is this the item:
http://www.lucky8llc.com/collections...emp-thermostat
Is this the item:
http://www.lucky8llc.com/collections...emp-thermostat
#19
I once found myself with loss of power under load and thought it was transmission shudder. Not so much a problem at idle but when accelerating up hills in 3 or 4th gear. It was a faulty wire; not obvious to the eye but found it when I began pulling the leads from the spark plugs and one of them seperated at that point. No fault codes but definitely had bad spark plug wires. Engine bay temps are pretty high on these trucks. They run hot, especially when not having been maintained and upgrades/replacements performed. This causes things like vaccum hoses, plastic lines and electrical leads to fault or fail. The Disco-2 is an ornery, high maintenance beast if I have ever known one. Get ready to spend some real time and money. Word to the wise: Pull the front driveshaft and check the Ujoints very well and do not use/reference the dash cluster gauges. You need aftermarket gauges for oil pressure and coolant temps. Read up on it, do some searches and you will find what I'm talking about.
Last edited by chubbs878; 07-03-2016 at 01:30 PM.
#20
There is no such thing as paranoid when it comes to a D2. You should replace the upper and lower hose assemblies, as well as the plate and gasket as a kit where the coolant circulates the throttle body. Most just bypass that altogether. Also a problem are the 2 plastic coolant lines which become brittle. Most replace with new high temp heater hose. You will find some starter tubes where plastic lines originate so replace everything at its entirety. Coolant leaks and loss a real issue on D2s and will result in overheating episodes. Even the overflow tank and cap should be replaced. Mine looked good and cracked at the neck. Damn near overheated. I saw steam and temp gauge was still reading normal. Had the plastic Tee on upper hose blow at an intersection waiting on stoplight. Saw steam, temp gauge in the middle. WTF is wrong with this thing?! That's when I joined forum and learned about this issue with dash gauges and bought something else to read live data from the ECU.
Last edited by chubbs878; 07-03-2016 at 01:33 PM.