will do. a lot of the upper easily accessable hoses were replace last year but not the lower ones which are difficult to reach. It seems the problem is there. Will go back one more time and tell him they did not do a good job and want them to fix it.

Helmuth

 

Hello Gentlemen,

Well I identified the second or third leak which was a clamp again this time the small hose going from the radiator to the reservoir visible on top when you open the hood, I think this is part of a safety system in case of too much pressure? Anyway I put it in place again and tightened it. So far no leak. However I start to wonder now whether these leaks are not caused by a different problem that results in pressure build up resulting in leaks at weak spots in the cooling circuit: old clamps and hoses. The second fan (the one the in front and in front of the radiator I believe) that normally only kicks in above a certain temperature is always on also when the engine is cold. I noticed this today when driving with the window open. So question I have: could there be a block in the system due to dirt or because a valve is broken triggering the second fan to go on constantly ? Since I repaired the last leak I also noticed after an off the road climbing drive the fluid in the reservoir is high not like usual lower because of pressure build up in the system. Maybe I am talking nonsense I am not a mechanic but a biotech scientist so you can be brutal

 

Well the cooling system is under pressure, the cap on the resevoir (the "safety bottle") keeps the system pressurized, by doing this this increases the boiling point of the coolant.
So instead of boiling at sea level at 220*F (engine coolant boils at a higher temp than water) with it under 16 PSI it will boil at 250*F. (Note, numbers are not exact but examples)
So with old worn out hoses and hose clamps when the cooling system is under pressure, which is what happens when the engine gets hot, the weak spots will leak.
The fix is to replace all worn out hoses and clamps, it is recommended that these hoses and clamps be replaced every 5 years no matter what.
The coolant level inside the resevoir will rise and fall with the heating and cooling of the engine, the coolant gets hot and it expands, it cools and it shrinks.
The resevoir is a overflow tank, it holds the "extra" coolant that the engine needs as well as giving you a easy place to check the coolant level.
So, here is what I would do, replace all coolant hoses and hose clamps as well as the thermostat.
At that same time I would do a complete cooling system flush with distilled water, keep rinsing the cooling system until the water comes out clear.
Keep in mind that when engine coolant gets old/worn out it can cause corrosion inside your cooling system and plug your radiator.
If it gets bad enough you will need to buy a new radiator.
Hope this helps.

 

sounds like a plan indeed. Can I do the flushing easily myself and which hose should I I uncouple for flushing? What I do not understand though that it did not leak when the engine is warm and I am driving. It starts only when the engine has been cooled off. What about the fan being on all the time how can that be explained? Is this the clutch that needs replacing, remember it is on even when the engine is started when cold.

thanks again !

 

If you are not very mecanhically inclined then I would let a shop do all the work.
There are several ways to flush a cooling system.
As for the hoses only leaking when cold, cant really explain that other than bad hoses.
As for the engine fan, the clutch fan will turn as long as the engine is running, so it will always be moving air.
When the clucth on the fan locks up then the fan spins at the same speed as the engine, the fan will be loud when this happens.
If it is doing that all the time then it is time for a new fan clutch.