I was getting various error codes pertaining to cylinders 4 & 7 misfiring, potential for catalytic convertor damage, manufacturer ignition error etc. etc.

Someone suggested swapping out the bosch platinum + 4's with champions because "the bosch platinums are sh*t". Hey, it was $20 and took me 15 minutes to do, so I did it. Truck ran like a champ for that night only and the next morning it was back to its' old routine of the service engine soon light flashing and the truck sputtering.

My buddy said it looked like a coil pack. People on other forums wanted to scream "HEAD GASKET", but a block test didn't show any exhaust in the coolant so I'm sorry to let those folks down, I don't need any headgaskets YET.

I did as DiscoMike said and checked the wires in the dark for corona's with the spraybottle and I seen nothing. So I bit the bullet and ordered the coil pack and gasket for $290 from Atlantic British...or British Atlantic, I can't remember the name of that place but Google can.

Today I tore into the Disco...actually removing the intake wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I'd still like to punch the engineer in the throat who decided to put the coil pack on the back of the motor like that because it's utterly retarded...in fact, I *SHOULD* just relocate it and order some custom wires.

Anyhow, what's the point of this rant? Well...a few things. First, the official Land Rover Technicians say to "remove the upper intake to replace the plug wires"...but I noticed when I was removing the coil pack from the back of the motor that I still had quite a bit of difficulty getting it from between the motor and firewall until I pulled off all of the wires!!!! so really, I'm skeptical that you can put all of the wires on the coil and pop it back into place and then pop the intake on...we'll have to wait and see.

I was going through all of the wires, checking the resistance on my beloved 8mm magnecors and WTF?!?!? on EACH and EVERY one of my even-numbered cylinders, I was missing the snap-clips on the coil ends. What am I talking about? Well, I am not encouraging anyone to go pull their wires off of the coil to see what I mean, but on the tip of the metal that contacts the coil there is a half-circle piece of metal with two dimples on it that "SNAP" when you push the wire down onto the coil. For whatever reason, my even cylinders are missing these clips...which is just utterly bizarre. EVERY SINGLE EVEN WIRE is corroded. Why? I could understand if maybe the wires on the bottom of the coil pack or the top, or the left or the right...but JUST the even side...bad corrosion (see picture).

I cleaned them up using a dremel, but they are still missing the snap-clips so I can't get a positive engagement to the coil. I could custom order them from Magnecor but that will have to wait until Monday and I have a road trip on Thursday. I don't really want to pay another $80,000 for another set of wires...Local land rover shop wants $175 for Magnecors and $35 per wire for OE replacements...I really want to stab someone in the throat right now because I can't even put this thing back together.

 

You really are unstable!

 

and this is why you call yourself "Unstable"?

 

Even with the Upper intake manifold off you still need to clip on the wires to the ignition coil with it place back behind the engine. It is just a million times easier to do that way (with the upper IM off). If you need the wires that soon just buy 4 champion wires and go after magnecor for the wires under warranty.

 

I'm convinced that those 4 wires were missing those snap locks when I bought them from that dealership that discomike recommended...

I'm irked because even if I put on some el' cheapo wires on the even side, it's going to be a pain to put on the magnecors later...and I really can't afford to wait to claim the warranty or whatever...just frustrating is all.

If there's anything to be gained from my experience, it's to ensure that your magnecors definitely all look the same on the coil end. My wife's hands were small enough to reach back behind the block to install the wires, and as she was doing it she was saying "this wire doesn't seem like it's snapping on." and I just kept encouraging her. I never thought for a second to check the wires to make sure they were consistent across the board.

blah. It's cheaper than having Land Rover do the job...$850 locally through the dealership...I'd still love to stab some Landie engineers in the throat for making some really bad design decisions.

 

Try working on a Fd over road divot (FORD). By my count I had to use 8 different adapters to replace the brake lines on fathers 93 F250.

 

Do Mercury's count? Maybe that's what pushed me over the edge.

Just the other day I blew out the brakelines in my 1999 Sable that we bought from a DEA car auction. I replaced the section of line and went to bleed the brakes and of course...POP HISSSSSS...another line goes.

The second line that went ran between a distribution block on the driver's side rear and and a block on the passenger side rear. My buddy who is helping me tells me to simply cut the line at the fitting on the passenger side and use a socket to get the fitting out...as soon as I removed it I knew I had problems because it was a BUBBLE FLARE! ack!

What's really perplexing is how there was a 12MM fitting on the passenger side and the other side was a smaller fitting but they were both on 3/16 line.

Long story short, something that should have taken 30 minutes tops to do, ended up taking me around 4 hours because I had to run back and forth to the parts store. They had no clue how to solve the problem so I had to use my own ingenuity...not that I have any ingenuity.