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Well, i tried to press the flange out with my 10t press and nothing, as in the cross beam started bending. Insane. I guess I'll ill be dragging the bearing down the shaft...
Yup, bearing came off no problem, just took a week for amazon to deliver the splitter.
Also i have it all back together, and i have to say it's kind of hard to spin this thing by hand as in i have to use a bit of force to rotate the shaft. Is that normal?
I guess the correct name for the tool is "bearing separator"
Seemed like the only option to get between the flange and the bearing.
But going back to the "hard to rotate by hand issue": i installed it on my disco and ... squealed like crazy and 0 pressure. It was pumping some fluid when I tried to bleed it. I also swapped the guts of the pressure relief valve to the ones from the old pump (in case something got stuck in the tiny holes) to no effect. So, I installed the old one back on to investigate what might be causing the binding. Everything was put together in the correct order. The new internal seal is the same thickness as what was there originally, which eliminates any option of the whole internal stack being thicker than the original and getting bound up. I checked runout on the shaft and it's 0 thousand. Nothing is clogged and all passageways are clean.
I'm quite stumped b/c it's not a complicated piece and I'm not sure where am I screwing up.
You have the stack in backwards. The roller ring can be installed flipped and it will not build pressure. The rollers have to go from larger volume to smaller volume. If you flipped the rotor ring it can be the opposite.
. Since the ring can go in only one way to line up with the pin, I must have flipped the rotor (I thought the usual role is "stamped dot up")... The experiment continues...
Also, from another barrel, I watched a couple of defenders' p/s pump videos, and they use a simple paper gasket, has anyone tried the option? Having to wait a week for a new "fancy" gasket is really annoying.