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I think it would depend on which seals he used(I don't trust the ones with just the knot at the intersection, only the full cross style)
, if he put some rtv silicone in the grooves before putting the seals in, filled the rest of the empty groove with rtv, and cut the excess off the seals that sticks out of the bottom of the rear main cap(before putting the rear cap back into the block).
If you don't cut the excess off with a razor, the bearing cap won't seat completely(even though it looks like it does), and the block surface will push the excess/protruding seal back up into the seal channel in the bearing cap, distorting it, and squashing it's end, causing a leak.
The seal ends also need razored flush on the oil pan side of the rear main cap as well(in the picture), or else it will leak between the block and oil pan.
The oil pan gasket should have a thin bead of rtv on both sides of the gasket, and everything Needs to be torqued to spec, in order.
Damn it Sixpack!!!
Put my full cross seal from Bearmarch in a few weeks ago. Pretty much did everything you outlined above - but - I did not check or trim the end of the seal at the top side of the bearing cap. Can't say I remember it protruding from the top of the cap though...
Luckily, I still have the long block on the stand without the pan on. Now that I've read this, I can't just finish assembling without ordering new seals and R&Ring the cap to make sure I check the top end.
Ordered new seals on Friday night, got them yesterday (Monday). Pulled the cap last night to find the seal ends on the top of the cap protruding a little bit. Cleaned the cap, put the new seal in and trimmed the top. I'll be installing later today.
Ordered new seals on Friday night, got them yesterday (Monday). Pulled the cap last night to find the seal ends on the top of the cap protruding a little bit. Cleaned the cap, put the new seal in and trimmed the top. I'll be installing later today.
Tony did you do a write up on replacing these seals or did you just follow the RAVE?
Make sure to get the seals pictured. I got them from Rimmer Bros. Use plenty of sealant under the crusifix and on either side of the horizontal cross bar. And like Sixpack said, be sure to trim any excess of the vertical bar protruding from above the bearing cap to avoid distorting the seal when you torque the cap down. Obviously, the bottom nub too once the cap is installed. FWIW, I installed the seal with the small ridge that runs the length of the vertical bar facing outward and smeared a little sealant on it too. Good luck. I’ve had about a 50/50 success rate. However, this last time I think I nailed it - no leaks (yet). It was the first time I trimmed the top too.
09-30-2021 | 11:44 PM
