I am getting a P0305, cylinder 5 misfire. The engine does stumble occasionally, and there is an exhaust smell that smell like power steering fluid.
The plug looks fine, they were replaced about 10k miles ago, 18 months ago. Unless someone else can read it differently.

I pulled # to swap the plugs, see if that changed it, put I disconnected the electrode, I jammed it back on and that seems to work for now. Is the #3 wire one of the tougher ones buried under the coil pack? I think I have a new wire in my future. They were pretty new. So I dont think I need to get them all.

Any other places I should look besides the plug and wire? What would cause an occasional burning smell?

I should add I do get the occasional P1412 for bank 1 vacuum leak, a smoke test does not seem to show anything. I wonder if it makes sense to pull the intake and the replace the gasket while I am in there.

 

Plug looks fine, my guess is the wire was your issue. I generally recommend swapping the plugs first (#5 with a different one), then the plug wires, then the coils left to right, then the injectors). (99% of the time it is one of those first three.

 

I’d say the plug on its own looks fine, but I would generally compare it to the other ones to get a better idea.

 

Thanks for the advice. I tried to pull the 3 wire off and it stuck to the plug. I got a set of wires tonight, will replace 5 and 3 (the busted one) swap the plugs and see what happens.

The photo you posted re the fuel pressure testing valve is super useful for the spark plug and coil pack replacement. Helpful to see it out of the truck.

Hopefully that is it.

 

Swapped 1 and 5 plugs. The same cylinder 5 misfire. Which is surprising bc the 3 wire is actually broken, the other pic shows a piece of the electrode stuck to the spark plug.

If it means anything, the SES liget is blinking asoppsed to bring constant.

I have no idea how anyone swaps wires without pulling the intake, i cant even see back there nevermind get a hand back there.

What are the odds that it is the pack, not the wire that is my issue. I would hate to get it all together and still have the code.
Is it a might as well replacement? S
I suppose I could plan on relocating the packs and leave them accessible. Most of the relocation kits include wires, which I already have.

On the plus side, I am averaging 16.1 mpg. Per the OBD. Maybe that is the key to fuel economy, running on 7 cylinder?

 

If you install new coils, it's likely to NOT need new wires or coils for many years.

There's only a few plugs wire manufacturers that are quality.

The eBay and Amazon coils seem to hold up well and are cheap.

Before going that far, just for kicks do a compression test. Verify #5 is getting at least about 120 psi cold. If it's sub 100psi you could have other issues. Below about 90 psi she will set off a miss fire code.

 

You swapped plugs or wires? Or both? The idea is to do one at a time, so you can determine if it is the plug, the wire, or the coil. Now you know why I make a kit to relocate the coils (wires not included, but available if needed, and our kit uses the factory wires so if you already have a set no need to buy another one). Coil could be going bad, best test is to swap left and right.

 

I got it pulled apart, in about an hour, not too bad. Took probably 4 hours all together going slower, if I had the pack relocating kit, that would save an easy hour.

I put it back together w the original intake gasket, I had to order another one, figured it was worth a shot to reuse it.

It idles at 3000 rpms currently. No codes, so that is good. That must mean its getting un metered air? Intake leak? I would not surprise me if the intake is not sealed some how. The 6 bolts that attach it are torqued, I thought I was careful.

Is the next thing a smoke test?

Thanks

 

Likely have the edge of the factory coil mount under the upper intake, easy to do. That or there is no slack in throttle cable for some reason. What did you do when you had it apart? Swap coil out or left to right?

 

I recently replaced the coils, wires, and plugs on my D2.

If you get a P0734 code (4th gear incorrect ratio), ensure all intake fittings and airbox are seated correctly. I had missed tightening one of the camps between the MAF and the throttle body. It worked its way loose, and I started to get the P0734 code. I sorted out the camps, and the code was gone.

And yes, I now have a coil relocation kit on hand. I'm not excited to deal with the stock location again.