Never touch the stuff...I think me and spike drink the same " Realityaid"....

and you are right as the thermostat is a small part of the problem...the engine as a whole is the main problem.... I am running out of breath here.... "IT'S JUST A BIG FU$CKING PILE OF SH$T" for starters....It.s like sh$t, no matter what you do to it, it still looks, smells and is ....sh$t....

that's just reality...not haterid.....i can put top hat liners, custom gasket, head bolts cutom cams , balanced whatever...and the block still can fail....it's just a very poor poor half assed design..otherwise you would not be buying them for 10 cents on the dollar....It's like saying a $250,000 dollar ferrarri thats 6 years old can be bought for $60,000 today.... yea... in your dreams...

That doent mean i dont think your thermo mod is stupid..i think it's alot better than the idiots who orginally designed it though..

 

Those of you who think inline thermostat is a bad idea don't have to do it. I am much more comfortable driving my truck with my coolant temp more or less stable. 190 degrees is far from cold, that is what most cars/trucks out there run at. The heater works just fine and the gas mileage is the same. I did this mode last October and my heater worked fine all winter.

 

What? Nobody got that reference? Come on!! The Boondocks!
If you've never seen it rent it, buy it, whatever just see it!!
Unrated of course.

 

Boondocks ? whats that hillbilly ****?

 

Are we talking about the same mod? If the engine remains a stable 180 or 190 that is a heck of a lot better than the random and very high temps they run stock, and 180 is still plenty hot to make an effective heater.

 

Better than that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXTmRWGGs7Y

And who hasnt thought this while at the movies?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUGUc7f0e_o

 

Yes we are talking about the same mod, I think it is a good one but it is my personal opinion and it is my experience that anything under 190* is to cold unless you live in the desert or the jungle and it is 90*+ all year and you run your engine all day long.

Repeated short trips in cold weather is bad for a engine to begin with let alone one that is running to cold.
And lets face it, how many of us run our trucks longer than 15-20 mins at a time on a regular basis?

 

Well I don't disagree that 190 is OK but the reality is these trucks don't regularly run at 190, its much higher and that cannot help an engine already prone to issues with headgaskets, cylinder liners slipping, and general mass destruction.

As far as the 15 minute drive scenario, that's a non issue as any time I drive it there is at least a 15 minute drive but I see your point.

 

The engine reaches the operating temperature in about the same time it does with a factory thermostat. Here is an article about coolant temperatures and effect of higher temps on corrosion: http://www.polarislabs1.com/new-engine.php

If you read the article running the engine at 205 increases metal pitting and deposits by 800% vs. running it at 160. D1 engines run cooler and have less issues with head gaskets. If you have ever seen a failed head gasket on D2 it is obvious that it gets eaten away by coolant.

Some modern engines run as hot as 230 but you can't classify D2 engine as modern by any means. Engines do run more efficient at higher temperatures and I am sure LR engineers thought by increasing temps they would reduce the fuel consumption and emissions. The problem is the engine was designed 50 years ago when they didn't even have pressurized cooling systems.

This isn't about running it colder, it is about a more stable temperature. If you are more comfortable with hotter temps just use a higher temp thermostat.

 

Here is why the head gaskets go on DII's.
It is because of the factory coolant, while engine temps may have something to do with it the main cause is the corrosive coolant.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...NgXg3MWONWbBpw

http://www.dexcoolsettlement.com/

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/dex-cool.htm

I used to sell bulk engine coolant and every GM tech I talked to as well as indie techs all said the same thing, Dex-Cool is pure junk.
I had to take a 8 hour training course on coolant, I learned alot.
Coolant is cheap insurance, change it every 2 years no matter what kind you use, any all aluminum safe coolant can be used in any aluminum cooling system.
If you are still under warranty then you must stay with the factory fill or you will void the warranty.
Look at all the cooling system problems DII's have, throttle body heater leak, over heating at idle, head gaskets...
Read your owners manual and Land Rover will tell you to change the engine coolant every 45,000 miles or 36 months for a DII, every 30,000 miles or 30 months for a DI which came with the standard green coolant.
So why does LR want you to change your 150,000 mile coolant every 45,000 miles?
Do you think they know something you dont? Or do they just want you to take it to the dealer more often?

As for DI's running cooler, the DI OEM t-stat is a 195*F.
The DII is a 180*F (after I looked it up), so while it is my opinion that a 180*F is to cold it is not LR's, and if you want to run a 180* then go ahead LR says that is fine.

I agree that stable coolant temps are better than fluctuating ones.