Remove the viscous fan, fan shroud, top hose, reservoir hose, air filter box, and the battery box. Plenty of clearance once all of those are out of the way. I just swapped my rad and t-stat this weekend.. Now idles at 188 deg. in 96 deg heat/traffic.

 

Those are a pain in the *** to get back in. I left mine out as well.

 

You dont have to remove the battery box, nor the air filter box.

 

Read previous posts.
No need to remove the airbox or battery box.
No need to remove radiator brackets.
You guys are all doing it the hard way

One more time.
Remove the grill and fan shroud.
The rubber flaps on each side of the condensor, and the phillips heads behind them.
And the 2 visible forward facing screws at the top.
That is ALL.
I just did it this way.

 

I usually remove the engine...

 

I already did that...now it's almost ready to run again...I hope.

 

You definitely don't, but for a 10 minute investment, it sure makes the job a lot easier.

 

I've never removed the battery box or air box to remove a radiator, I just find a rather large tree, connect a strap to it & back up. I guarantee you the radiator will come right out no questions asked.


Seriously though, I disconnect the black shrouds, then unbolt the top 10mm bolts on the radiator brackets, and you can then angle the radiator back, disconnect the one bolt/screw that secures the transmission/oil cooler and wiggle the radiator out.


One thing a lot of people forget to do is transfer over the little black clips on the bottom of the radiator that secure the lower shroud into place.

 

I get it now sixpack. You unbolt the plastic pieces with the pins from the sides of the radiator itself. That wasn't an option for me because the 10mm M6 top bolt on the driver's side is frozen. The captive nut just spins. If it weren't the radiator side tank I might be tempted to clamp it in there but rather than crack something I removed the horns and the brackets.

 

No, removing them is no help at all.
You're just adding work.