OK, my shop is without power that put my water pump in a few months back since the wind storm that came through last week, so I may replace this myself. I read through some threads and RAVE. Am I correct that you DO NOT have to remove the fan on a 4.0 D2? Also, in regard to applying the new gasket. I see some people say they just use RightStuff, so would you recommend the gasket and some gasket sealer or just some make-a-gasket product or RightStuff with no gasket as all?

I have not replaced a water pump before, and I know that once out, the most important part is cleaning the old gasket materials off and getting a good seal with the new water pump going back on. Any insights would be appreciated. Also, do you need anything on the bolts to help seal when they go back in, was not sure if the coolant came in contact with them anywhere or not?

 

Replacing the fan will make it a lot easier and yes, use a little non-hardening sealant, if you want as a thin film.
Make sure to replace your t/stat if it hasn't been done in awhile and throw a bottle of Water Wetter in the coolant.

 

UPDATE: I purchased the 36MM fan clutch wrench at Northern Tool that is for Ford V8s. Funny it never tells you what size it is on the package or wrench anywhere. I found out the size of the wrench on Northern Tools webpage from customer reviews of the wrench said it would work on GM's and was 36mm. Northern Tool Part # 9094133 for $15.99. For my first every water pump replacement, not bad at all. I tapped the wrench multiple times with my baby short-handled sledge hammer once I had it on the fan clutch nut on the back of the fan, and it eventually came loose. I used the same procedure with a box-end wrench on the 3 bolt heads on the water pump pulley, except I used a very large open-end spanner type wrench vertical with open end over the horizontal box-end wrench to tap against the wrench that was on the bolt head with the hammer, and that worked out very well. I was going to use a cheater pipe, but could not find anything in my collection of junk that would work When reassembling I pulled up the serp. belt diagram an attempted to slip it back on like it came off with the belt over the water pump pulley sliding off as I loosened the pulley when it came off. This was like the light bulb going off! The belt was over the pulley and not under like the diagram says. I have tried to slip it on using the correct routing and no way it is going to slip on. I am going to have to loosen the belt tensioner to do it. 10mm bo0lt heads on water pump pulley and the 6 short bolts on the water pump, and 7/16 on the 3 longer bolts on the water pump.

So that brings me back to my light bulb moment. When the shop put the water pump on 2 months ago, they did not route the serp. belt correctly as they had it over the water pump and not under. So in tightening the belt and/or in putting it on using the incorrect route, they killed the bearings on the water pump pulley. DAH! Am I correct on my assumption here?

 

Possible, if pump was rotating wrong direction, then fan blade load would be different, certainly if you consider the forces at work with fan blowing out the front of the truck into a 70 mph head wind breeze supplied by your forward motion. If a WP can wear out quickly from a slightly unbalanced fan, what you described could also kill it. Not sure shop will be handing you a check however.

Should you be able to use a wrench to press or pull on the tensioner and make it swing to allow belt to go on? It is not normal to have to tear things off the engine to replace a belt.

 

Discovery II belt routing

[IMG]imap://jeffreyefall@imap.gmail.com:993/fetch%3EUID%3E/INBOX%3E29490?part=1.2.2&filename=edhdjfhb.png[/IMG][IMG]imap://jeffreyefall@imap.gmail.com:993/fetch%3EUID%3E/INBOX%3E29490?part=1.2.2&filename=edhdjfhb.png[/IMG][IMG]imap://jeffreyefall@imap.gmail.com:993/fetch%3EUID%3E/INBOX%3E29490?part=1.2.2&filename=edhdjfhb.png[/IMG]

 

and Discover Land Rover Discovery Serpentine Belt Routing Maintenance Tips (some have ACE, some don't)

 

I after using RAVE, forum hints, and a little common sense and guessing here and there, I reinstalled the water pump, replaced the belt tensioner assembly just for good measure while in there, throttle body heater/defroster that was leaking slightly, lower rad hose and t-stat as they are both at least 4 yrs old. I had already replaced the crazy octopus hose that goes to the water pump that was original last year as well, and Will Tillery replaced the serp belt last year when doing my HG. I was not really 100% sure how to pull on the tensioner to reinstall the belt, as I did not need to create any slack with it to get the belt off. It came off when I removed the water pump pulley. So after searching the forums and Google, I found this nice video of the entire process on a '96 Rangie with what looks like a GEMS engine from what I have seen on the forums. It is amazing how the parts on the front of the engine look pretty much identical and creating the slack on the tensioner is easily shown, and wow, easy, just have to know how to do it. I thought I would post the video link here for the next person going down this path. Also note at the intro of the video, the company name that is providing this video is www.rswsolutions.com. The same company that sells the ABS Amigo.

Again thanks for all the helpful hints and belt routing link.

Range Rover - How To Replace Water Pump P1 - YouTube

 

nicely done!
Enjoy your new W.P.