My 04 D2 is suffering from the Dreaded Dash Curl. AB and BPU both sell a kit which was originally for a D1 but they say it will work for a D2? My dash as a lump in it where it joins the defrost vent just to the right of the instruments.
Anyone care to opine?

 

I took my dash out and put gorilla glue under it. Then I took a 2x4 and clamped it down evenly. After I went to the LR dealer and bought screws that have a tan cap over them (they are on the DI in the back drivers panel). I put screws in every 2 inches and then closed the cap. It looks stock and nice.

 

I haven't read about this before, but I'm experiencing the same thing on my '04. The way it sounds, this is a common problem?

I'll have to look into the kit and see what it consists of.

 

The kit once installed is fairly ugly, I have seen one. Not so much ugly as obvious.. My dash in the black 04 is doing the same thing. So there are a few ways to fix it that are under consideration,

The kit (Meh)
Screws and glue (How did it look oilspot? Maybe a pic)
Do nothing it is not visible from the inside
Replace dash with one from Salvage yard Such as Overland Rovers , Paul Grant Etc, Overland requires a deposit to remove one since it is so much work. I have never pulled one so not sure how much work it is??
I am very interested in this thread and will be watching if there are others that have done some of these or other options

 

Devon 4x4 has them, but there site seems down now.
I've been putting off ordering..

 

Had no idea that a kit was available to repair these, but now that you mentioned it, I would like to know what is included, what way they have to repair it. Here is how I fixed mine: My thinking was that if I could get some good epoxy, or similar adhesive beneath it, and get it down flat, that it would stay down, flat, in place. However, for the longest time, I couldn't figure out how to get it to lay down flat as it normally should be, without taking dash off completely and use clamps on it. After thinking it over, one day, it hit me, a very simple solution, if it would work, AND IT DID, ONCE I TRIED IT! I went to the hardware store, a store that sells various boards and sections of wood, dowels, and square pieces, in various diameters, so I bought some square ones, about 1/2" square. Once home, I carefully cut these to length, by measuring how long they needed to be, to jam into the opening that exists between the upper area of windshield and the headliner---there is a perfect gap there, to fit in wood sticks. Now, using a section of wood board just large enough to fit over the whole curled dash area, set it on top of the curled dash area (you probably will have to cut a few grooves in that board, to fit in the square stick braces, so they will not pop out of place. Now, cut the wood stick braces to length, so that they will, with force, fit nicely between the upper groove, upper end of windshield, and the board that helps protect the dash curl plastic from the small ends of wood stick braces, making a more uniform force over whole area of curled dash, holding it down in place. These wood sticks must be of such length that they jam down against the board on curled dash, forcing it down flat in place. I did this on a very hot day, with sun beating on dash part of the day, so dash curl was hot and probably more pliable than if it were in colder state, so with force, it moves down in place, without cracking or breaking up. BEFORE DOING ALL THIS, USING A POPSICKLE STICK, I SPREAD A SPECIAL EPOXY UNDER CURLED DASH SECTION, TO FASTEN IT DOWN FOR GOOD---I DO A LOT OF GUNSMITHING WORK, AND USE A SPECIAL FIREARMS SPECIFICATION EPOXY THAT IS TOUGH AS NAILS, AND WILL WITHSTAND HEAVY RIFLE RECOIL, WHEN USED TO GLUE BROKEN OR CRACKED GUN STOCKS. I HAVE USED THAT EPOXY ON A MILLION THINGS, AND NEVER ONCE DID IT FAIL ME. IT IS SOLD BY A COMPANY CALLED BROWNELL'S (ONLINE SALES AND WEBSITE), BUT IS ALSO SOLD BY NUMEROUS GUN SHOPS AROUND COUNTRY. IT IS CALLED ACRAGLAS. ANYWAY, THE UPRIGHT STICK, BRACES WORKED BEAUTIFULLY, HOLDING CURLED DASH DOWN IN PLACE, AND AFTER ACRAGLAS CURED OVERNIGHT, THE DASH IS AS GOOD AS NEW. IT HAS NOW BEEN THROUGH A LOT OF DASH HEAT FROM SUN, ETC., AND IT IS STILL AS GOOD AS NEW. WORKS FOR ME; YOU SHOULD TRY IT.

 

"The kit once installed is fairly ugly," Interesting. My method, see earlier post, is not ugly, for it is same as came from factory. If my past experience with Acraglas is any indication, my restored dash will last when the whole vehicle is long dead and buried. It has now held up through a lot of heat on it, from sun, and it hasn't moved at all since my repair. Trust me, Acraglas is the adhesive to use, and I suspect far better than any so-called kit, way cheaper too.

 

I actually qualified that ugly statement with "More Obvious than Ugly" but beauty is in the eye of the beholder
. I may try something like you did or just replace it. Or if I try to fix it and screw it up then I will need to replace it. It just seems like a lot of work.
Land Rovers - - the fun never ends.

 

Okay after posting this thread a little over a year ago, and pretending my problem did not exist, I went in search of a repair kit and have finally located one:Dashboard Repair Kit - Black

This is from Devon 4x4 in the UK. I confirmed with them via phone that it will indeed work on a D2. I'm waiting for a quote that will include shipping. I will post it as soon as I get it.

 

Dash lift is a common problem on Rover cars of a similar era. I've always had good results on those by using superglue to attach the soft covering to the hard plastic frame. The advantage is that it is quick but you must do the job with the doors or windows open because of the fumes. Do a small area at a time an work along.