I have asked this before, and received no concrete reply. Exactly how is one supposed to grease the centering ball used in a rebuild, which has no grease zerk? A needle on the grease gun to pierce the rubber boot?

 

From what I understand you have to remove the one end of the driveshaft from the transfer case and then there is a needle point for a needle grease gun.
You move the double cardon and then you can see the needle fitting.
I cant find the pictures on this, but they are on the forum somewhere.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ase+driveshaft

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ase+driveshaft

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...ase+driveshaft

 

Lol, that first link started with a question asked by me. Most of the comments about greasing the centering ball were talking about Tom Woods drive shafts, with 2 comments from Tom Rowe:
"Putting grease under the dust shield is unlikely to get any in to the centering ball. There is a tiny vent hole behind the centering ball that you might be able to use to get grease in, but you'd need a tiny curved needle.
Technically the centering ball in these are not greaseable."
and
"None of them for the OEM propshaft are considered serviceable"

Weather permitting, I'm going to drop part of my shaft for joint greasing tomorrow (didn't do it last oil change do to freaking cold temperatures), so I will see if the Precision centering ball I used has the female port talked about in rj95lss's pictoral.

 

The centering ball kits, whether for greaseable or non-greasable CV heads, don't have fittings on them.
The zerk fitting is on the CV head. OEM DII front propshafts do not have a greasable CV head.
The only way to get grease in to it is if you have small bent needle to insert in to the vent hole.
Removing the OEM propshaft doesn't aid in greasing it unless you can't get new grease to come out from around one or more seals on a u-joint.

The reason people remove the DC end of the TW propshaft to lube the CV head is because it can't be accessed when the propshaft is installed.

 

Tom in your Sticky post you quote two different Neapco UJs 1-0005 (1300 series) & 1-0154 (1310 series) Advance shows both being available & they are same price. Which one is best to use or would it be better to get TWs 1310s or other brand?

Ps. Do you still have the Flush Zerks available & also the gun adapter for them?

 

The OEM propshaft takes the 1300 series. The 1310 series is larger, and used on later Series Land Rovers.
Yes, I have the flush zerks. The adapter you can get at NAPA. Though if you can't find one I could send you one.

 

Got the front shaft done today (and am still shivering from the cold). No matter which way I rotated the shaft, I couldn't see any kind of vent hole for the centering ball, so only the three joints and slip yoke were done (along with the joint and slip yoke on the rear shaft). The cardan joint felt very nice from how I could move it 4" over my head on the cold concrete. Come spring, I'm going to pull the shaft completely (this time just removed it from the transfer case) and see if I can do anything with the centering ball given a better viewpoint and ease of access on a workbench.

 

The vent hole is in line with axis of the propshaft.

 

I say rebuild it using new joints and grease the center ball or replace it. I re-used my center ball and greased it. big whoop!