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Demonstration: replacing wheel hubs, ABS sensor and front axle shaft seals

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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #11  
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From: Boston Strong
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sorry no idea on the size
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #12  
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From: Duxbury MA
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Originally Posted by TRIARII
So in order to add the RTV that means I have to drain the oil again correct? Doesnt the oil sit in the pan when the engine is cold? If so what a waste of good oil..... should I apply the RTV under or above the gasket? If the pan was back out id remove the gasket and apply the RTV on the mating surface but in the event I just unbolt the pan and lower it enough to apply the RTV, it will be much harder to apply underneath the gasket vs above it.
You will probably need to drain at least some of the oil but if you do it into a clean container you can reuse it. Your pan is clean enough that it won't dump dirt into whatever you collect the oil in. You could use a disposable aluminum baking pan like you can get at the grocery store. Might be more trouble than it's worth but that's your call. You want to put the rtv on the engine itself so it will be above the gasket. There are breaks in the surface that the gasket seals against at the rear where the cruciform seals are trimmed flush at each side of the rear bearing cap and also in the front where the timing cover sets in. Check RAVE, it shows right where to put the rtv. You can put it on there pretty well and it will squeeze out when you torque the pan down again. Don't go nuts with it but make sure you get enough to seal those joints.

Can't help you with the plug diameters. It's weird that the plugs are different sizes. Mine were the same way. One went in with a little difficulty and the other was brutal. It kept popping back out while I was working the final section in. Totally sucked.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2014 | 10:19 PM
  #13  
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From: St Louis MO
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Excellent write up!!

The seals on the pan get swollen from oil leaks and can be a real MF or impossible to get back in. I spent almost an hour trying to get an old one back in. Ordered a new one from LR and had it installed in 30 seconds. I posted something about them, and might have included what I paid for them, but that was years ago.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 07:30 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by lordmorpheus
Excellent write up!!

The seals on the pan get swollen from oil leaks and can be a real MF or impossible to get back in. I spent almost an hour trying to get an old one back in. Ordered a new one from LR and had it installed in 30 seconds. I posted something about them, and might have included what I paid for them, but that was years ago.

I was thinking as much, about them expanding over time, that is the only plausible explanation. Just glad Im not the only one having trouble with them.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 09:04 AM
  #15  
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From: Duxbury MA
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Here they are: Land Rover Parts, Accessories and Information, or here: ERR7229 GROMMET - Land rover, or here: Land rover ERR7229
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 09:11 AM
  #16  
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From: Boston Strong
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their you go
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 04:03 PM
  #17  
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From: Near Bordeaux, France
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Originally Posted by TRIARII
Thanks all, could not have done it without you guys! Drow can you elaborate on those freeze plugs? One of the rubber grommets went in with some trouble, the other one WILL NOT GO IN! I spent nearly 40 minutes just trying to get that last one it and no luck. So I figured id take out the other one and switch them around and see if that made a difference but NOPE. Im still angry at how hard those things are to install.

So in order to add the RTV that means I have to drain the oil again correct? Doesnt the oil sit in the pan when the engine is cold? If so what a waste of good oil..... should I apply the RTV under or above the gasket? If the pan was back out id remove the gasket and apply the RTV on the mating surface but in the event I just unbolt the pan and lower it enough to apply the RTV, it will be much harder to apply underneath the gasket vs above it.

ArmyRover: could we make this a sticky? I worked my *** off to make those videos. I searched and searched all over youtube and other forums for video links that show you how to do the front axle shaft seals but there was nothing. The hubs were easy to do and I did not even need any special tools. I did order a 3 piece puller that I anticipated using to remove the wheel hubs but im still waiting for it to arrive in the mail and all you really need is a hammer.
TRIARII, don't waste the oil drain it into the empty clean containers the new oil came in using a clean funnel. The oil is good and can be reused.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
TRIARII, don't waste the oil drain it into the empty clean containers the new oil came in using a clean funnel. The oil is good and can be reused.

I will do that, thanks so much for the advice guys. One thing I have to ask though. Ever since my front passenger wheel hub started making noises while driving Ive had the 3 amigos and brake lights on my dash. Not that the front hubs and abs sensors are replaced should the codes retire on their own after a driving cycle or do they have to be reset using abs scan tool? I want to know for sure that my fix solved the issue that triggered the 3 amigos but i wont be able to determine that until those dash lights disappear.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 08:24 PM
  #19  
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From: Duxbury MA
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I believe those need to be reset. Hopefully you can get it done without paying. You can use an abs amigo tool, or one of those chinese knock-off readers. I have one and it's great. I'd hook you up but you're too far from me. I think there is a guy in NH that rents his amigo reader out. He might be close by if nobody you know up there can reset them for you.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 08:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 04duxlr
I believe those need to be reset. Hopefully you can get it done without paying. You can use an abs amigo tool, or one of those chinese knock-off readers. I have one and it's great. I'd hook you up but you're too far from me. I think there is a guy in NH that rents his amigo reader out. He might be close by if nobody you know up there can reset them for you.

While I was at autozone getting my battery swapped out tonight I asked about an abs sensor and they told me the autozone in my town actually has one so im gonna swing by tomorrow after work to see if they can read and reset the codes. If that does not work how would you feel about letting me borrow it provided I sent you a little cash? I live 15 minutes from Portsmouth NH which is not to far from the MA border. Be more than happy to talk about it on the phone first. But in any event we will see how things go tomorrow. Ive never heard of autozone having anything other than an OBD2 code reader.
 
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