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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 05:24 PM
  #41  
Luckyjayb's Avatar
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From: Bham, Alabama
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The blue circle shows where the final end of the linkage attaches to the cruis control actuator. That "L" bracket is held in place to the rubber actuator by 2 plastic pieces. That's where mine broke. Have you checked the actual cable by the throttle body to make sure the springs and all are still ok?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 05:26 PM
  #42  
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The cruise control linkage is on the left. The return spring could have broken or came loose
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 06:03 PM
  #43  
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Thanks for the update AZRover.

So I buttoned it back up and I've located the CC brain. Per this thread:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rol-fix-26617/

I'm going to give it a try with the meter to see if I get anywhere.

So where I am:
- Suck test on the plenum- PASS
- general hose condition (hold a vacuum)- PASS
- Actuator motor- PASS
- Light on the switch- PASS
- Throttle body linkage and such- PASS

I think this leaves me to the diagnostic process of the brain per the above unless someone has a better suggestion. Thanks a bunch for all the input.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 07:31 PM
  #44  
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Did you verify the functioning of the check valves on the end of the motor? As I said, mine were stuck so even once I got my motor spinning it still wouldn't pull a vacuum.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2017 | 08:33 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mollusc
Did you verify the functioning of the check valves on the end of the motor? As I said, mine were stuck so even once I got my motor spinning it still wouldn't pull a vacuum.
Well I think I did. I blew threw everything. I'm not convinced a lot of vacuum could get pulled, but am just not sure. I guess if I knew the direction of flow, that would help.

My thoughts were that everything seems in good shape on the motor and such and the seals were good, etc., so I'm making an assumption that they are OK.

I think I'll do the electrical checks detailed in that other post- at least the ones checking for juice on specific terminals when various switches in various conditions are activated. If that checks out, then I'll go back to the vacuum exercise. It takes only a couple minutes to remove the pump, so not a big deal.

One thing I didn't mention was that I do have the 3 amigos on right now and when I had the full on Rover codes pulled, there is a possible wheel speed sensor bad. I read in other threads that the 3 amigos as not related, but as the speed comes from the SLABS, which feeds a couple places based on the manual, could that be a source? If so, after the electrical checks, I may hold off until "option B" is completed and go from there.
 

Last edited by longtallsally; Jan 26, 2017 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 06:55 AM
  #46  
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Blow and suck through all the apertures. The ones with a valve near them should be good in one direction and blocked in the other unless the valve is open. It can take a bit of fiddling to be sure that you're checked everything.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 03:23 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mollusc
Blow and suck through all the apertures.
And include photos of the B&Sing please.
......
 
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Old Jan 27, 2017 | 10:37 PM
  #48  
Luckyjayb's Avatar
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Originally Posted by number9
and include photos of the b&sing please.
......
lmfao!!!!
 
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