DII Reliability Upgrades
#21
Agreed, but as stated they thus far do not exist. Considering however that my MPGs are 15.6 average, I'd say they gained HP by being more efficient (in air/fuel flow though, not in the valvetrain), so it's a step in the right direction at least.
Also, if you gained 50+ hp at the crank (whether via nitrous or efficiency upgrades), wouldn't this cause transmission issues?
Also, if you gained 50+ hp at the crank (whether via nitrous or efficiency upgrades), wouldn't this cause transmission issues?
#22
Anyone used this stuff?
Corroseal Rust Converter and Metal Primer (Quart)
I might do it on the frame just inside the 4 wheel wells as that's usually what rusts out first. I've got surface rust now and I'd like to hault it at that.
Corroseal Rust Converter and Metal Primer (Quart)
I might do it on the frame just inside the 4 wheel wells as that's usually what rusts out first. I've got surface rust now and I'd like to hault it at that.
#24
#25
"ah I did forget, once every spring I usually wash the underbody a good amount, let her dry for a few days then get underthere with some brass brushs and 2 rattlecans of black rust reformer. Just remember to wear goggles, gloves and old clothing lol"
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For you guys back east, such as NJ, this is good idea, because of that damn salt (can you say corrosion creation?) you put on the roads each winter, though it is near impossible to rid the salt from all hiding places on Rover, with holes into various places of the frame itself, etc., etc. In states where we don't use the salt, such care isn't needed.
_______________________________
For you guys back east, such as NJ, this is good idea, because of that damn salt (can you say corrosion creation?) you put on the roads each winter, though it is near impossible to rid the salt from all hiding places on Rover, with holes into various places of the frame itself, etc., etc. In states where we don't use the salt, such care isn't needed.
#26
#27
"ah I did forget, once every spring I usually wash the underbody a good amount, let her dry for a few days then get underthere with some brass brushs and 2 rattlecans of black rust reformer. Just remember to wear goggles, gloves and old clothing lol"
_______________________________
For you guys back east, such as NJ, this is good idea, because of that damn salt (can you say corrosion creation?) you put on the roads each winter, though it is near impossible to rid the salt from all hiding places on Rover, with holes into various places of the frame itself, etc., etc. In states where we don't use the salt, such care isn't needed.
_______________________________
For you guys back east, such as NJ, this is good idea, because of that damn salt (can you say corrosion creation?) you put on the roads each winter, though it is near impossible to rid the salt from all hiding places on Rover, with holes into various places of the frame itself, etc., etc. In states where we don't use the salt, such care isn't needed.
#28
Lets not all forget these rigs are 10 to 15 years old. My 2000 was built in 10/99 so that makes it 15 in October. So reliability is always going to be in question no matter what you do to them. Just be prepared to scrap or throw your wallet at it when the time comes.
To make these things like new again and in better than factory condition you would be looking at 25K+. That is dropping in a new motor, new tranny, new HD drive shafts, HD axles, Lockers, Rims, Tires, chasis, bushings, springs, shocks, paint, brake lines, lift kits. Not even talking about the interior.
But if you think about it, where would you get an almost new Luxury 4X4 for 25G's?
To make these things like new again and in better than factory condition you would be looking at 25K+. That is dropping in a new motor, new tranny, new HD drive shafts, HD axles, Lockers, Rims, Tires, chasis, bushings, springs, shocks, paint, brake lines, lift kits. Not even talking about the interior.
But if you think about it, where would you get an almost new Luxury 4X4 for 25G's?
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aarongregor
Discovery II
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09-28-2015 02:42 PM