I hate asking but here goes. Vehicle is a 1998 Disco 2 with 130K miles. I purchased it used and not running. When the starter was engaged there would be intermittent "firing" on some cylinders but just not quite enough to get it to start.

The vehicle starts and runs fine on ether or if air filter is wetted with gasoline. It will not continue to run once those fuels are depleted.

I have a second Diso 2 that I have swapped the fuel pump from. Fuel pressure is good. I swapped out the crank position sensor. I swapped out the MAF sensor. I had checked the inertia switch. I also tried a jumper on the inertia switch. I disconnected the 2 wire coolant temperature senso behind and centered between the alternator and A/C compressor. I disconnected the MAF sensor. I tried bypassing the fuel pump relay. Nothing seems to make any change in how the engine behaves. It's always willing to start on ether but then quit when the ether is expended.

I am a bit concerned that the radio was changed and the seller stated that the dealership defeated the anti theft. There are some cut wires that the seller stated were cut by the dealership. Obviously the ignition is not effected. Just not quite enough fuel to run.

 

If it sat perhaps the injectors are fouled and not passing fuel. You can try testing the injector circuits with a noid light (available to borrow/rent at many auto parts stores, depending on where you live). If you're combusting on fuel premixed into the airstream then I don't think factors like alarm/inertia/CPS etc are part of the problem.

 

The license plate was current when I bought the Disco and paperwork did not indicate that it had been sitting. If I kept it running with gasoline on the air filter long enough to begin to warm up - it would attempt to run longer without added fuel. However - never sufficient to self sustain. It didn't seem to be missing. I can see if I can get an injector signal.

 

That sounds temp related, like pointing to the CTS, however in my experience with other cars, disconnecting it causes full rich and that should help in cold starting. Your problem seems to be the opposite to that. Have you tried to check the actual fuel pressure or verify 12v at the pump while cranking? I understand you have a known good pump in there but maybe something else is at play.

And I guess I should clarify that I don't *think* the alarm/etc is part of the issue because I think that cuts more than just fuel, but honestly I can't say that for certain. Someone else here probably knows.

 

So, not getting fuel. If you tested fuel pressure, then that means the fuel pump is working but the injectors are not firing, which you can determine using a noid light. Then it is a matter of determining what is locking the injectors out, which could be anti-theft, CKP sensor, etc.

If the CKP sensor itself is OK, the circuit wiring or connector or ECM could be bad. The CKP circuit could be tested by looking for pulses at the ECM terminals while cranking. The Electrical Test Manual (ETM) has a series of tests to perform to troubleshoot problems like this.

 

Generally the security system will not allow the vehicle to crank. First thing to test is the fuel pressure, there is a port on the injector manifold you can use a fp test gauge to check it with. You can't see it but you can feel it. It is under the drivers side of the upper intake runners at the back right at the top about 3/4 inch under the runners. If you have good fp then it is most likely ckps sensor bad. Hard to test the ckps other than replacement - best if you can swap with known good from another truck. If that is not it then as others said it could be wiring or ecu.