Wow, thanks for the great instructions. This is a huge help.
Gathering all the parts this week with an eye to getting it done this weekend
Really appreciate the play-by-play.

 

The PAS Pump is basically a sandwich of two halves that are secured by 4 bolts and a thin paper gasket. The problem is that the bolts were not secured with Loctite or an equivalent and over time the bolts come loose and the lack of pressure on the gasket blows it out. At that point air is introduced into the system on the suction side. The pump begins to blend the fluid with air causing the hydraulic pressure to drop, the bearings begin to whine due to the lack of lubrication, and the reservoir becomes pressurized by all the air and begins to spill the fluid out.


To make it more interesting; when the engine is off the fluid begins to leak out due to gravity at the seams of the pump and basically can empty the reservoir in no time. When the pump leaks at the seams it could be mistaken with a leaky suction side hose (the thicker of the two). That's usually not the case.


A new pump is over $400. A rebuilt is around $250. A used one and you are gambling. For $30 you can easily replace the paper gasket and put it back in an hour. With the same kit you can also do all the seals, o rings, and gaskets and basically rebuild your own pump. The only additional o ring you will need is the one for the high pressure hose.


Power Steering Pump Seal Kit 9170 Land Rover Discovery II 1999 2004 | eBay


I hope this helps. Been there and did what I just described. I also documented the process with pictures and will post them soon.

 

Pippa I think I got lucky with my used pump. My Land Rover buddies all say so and have given me the nickname "cheap bastard". I have a seal kit and my old pump; is the seal kit all that is involved in a rebuild? I ask because I had been told that if I ran the pump dry for any period of time (which I did, of necessity), it was ruined. Second question concerns the seal you mentioned for the high pressure line. When I installed the new pump I just threaded and tightened the high pressure line, but did not add a seal. I have checked every day and don't have any drips... Have I just gotten lucky again? Do I need to put a deal on it?

Thanks

 

Hi Charlie; You are not a "cheap bastard"... clearly your friends don't own a landy :-) If it was not for our creative fixes and scavenger hunts we would be bled dry by these English beasts... but we do it cause we lovem and would not have it any other way. Clearly we are all automotive masochists.


In answer to your ??? The seal kit is all that is available in a rebuild on these. If you ran the pump dry for an extended period, then yes most likely its toast. You can easily check the inside of the pump. It will tell you the whole story. Remove the 4 allen bolts on the back and take pictures along the way to make sure you put it back the same way. If you see scoring, metal shavings, then you have your answer. If it looks good then I would rebuild it completely including the shaft seals and have it as a spare for the inevitable...


The O ring on the high pressure line should have been replaced out of precaution as they tend to harden and do not seal well after reinstallation. Yours is apparently doing fine and would leave it alone.


This video may help give you an overview of the re-seal process. They use a press to remove the shaft but you could do the same with a large C clamp or hammer and vice grip with a large socket and some WD-40. Its not that hard to take it out. Just don't bang directly on the shaft and watch the mating surfaces. You do not want any marks on the housing.




Let me know how it goes.

 

Great video find. I can do that! In fact, the video is so detailed I think I can do it just watching it. I'm going to try it this weekend.