and that is not a LR tstat, buy a LR tstat

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...e=0&eq=&key=it

 

Yes, steer clear of the white version (Motorad)

You want the LR Genuine Grey version

 

If you are really worried about this
then replace the radiator and the tstat with the 180 degree (but not a motorad)
and the fan clutch (if a 2003 has one).

Get the nissans radiator at rockauto.com
Get the 180 degree t-stat from AB
Fan Clutch - I got a Hayden HD from eBay. Worked great.

Then you'll live happily ever after.

 

clutch and fan are one piece on 03/04

 

AB only has the motorad version. Call Zack @ RN. He gets a good price on the PEL500110 Genuines.


I have the Nissens Radiator - $185/shipped for forum members

 

This is great info!

 

You can swap in a non 03/04 fan and clutch assembly which will allow you to use an aftermarket fan clutch... if you want. I haven't priced the 03/04, just did the swap because I had the parts.

 

when was the last time you used the bleeder and bled it?


if your close to an auto parts store that has a camera ( motor scope) rent it, drain the system and insert the camera to the bottom of the rad. look for a build up of dexcool in the rows.
or if your in PA, which you probably aren't, I could do it for you.


if there is a build up, you can flush it or replace the radiator.


if there isn't, your system could just have air in it, which is what also causes the dex to sludge and your temps to slowly rise over a couple days as it gets more and more.


the problem with replacing the rad is if its NOT sludge, your chances of being in the same bad spot are pretty good, and if your rad isn't clogged, its a useless repair.


definitely change the stat.


before I did my head gaskets I was bleeding the air off the coolant system every week. I would know it needed bleeding because my ultra gauge would show the temps and they would rise over the course of a week.


I would park my rover on a steep embankment, engine being the highest, raise the overflow bottle and hang it off the hood, turn the heater on high, and rev the engine. open the bleeder screw multiple times and for a couple days my temps wouldn't go passed 206.


Since I did my head gaskets, I've bled the truck maybe twice other than the initial since last July. Temps are normally below 206, and I only see 206 when its ready to bleed... normally it runs around 195-199.


I have put two rads in my truck in the last 4 years. Both changes were due to my elbow hitting that little nipple on the right side of the rad and breaking it off.
Both times they were junkyard radiators, with dexcool. One rad specifically was in a neglected truck, had not one speck of clogging. I also have two rads on the shelf, just for mistakes, and neither of them have clogging.


I am not suggesting rads don't get clogged, I am suggesting that you make sure.


I also swapped out the dex for the green last July.

 

Quick update for other forum readers:


I called both Rovers North and Lucky8LLC to get pricing for the low temp thermostat and radiator fan for my 2003 D2.


RN quoted $69.95 for the original LR 180 degree thermostat PEL500110 while Lucky quoted same but with free shipping.


RN quoted $530 for the original radiator clutch/fan combo unit while Lucky quoted only $350. Big difference on this one.


RN also provided very sound tech advice. Greg confirmed definitely replace the thermostat and steps on how to replace it. And also how to test if the fan is working correctly (or not).


To replace thermostat:
1. Go to RN website and there is a Cooling & Heating schematic for the model of your vehicle.
2. Locate the thermostat and disconnect the 3 hoses from it.
3. Make sure you collect the coolant that will pour out and dispose properly.
4. Install new 180 degree thermostat by discarding factory hose clamps and replacing them with better worm clamps.
5. Fill with pink coolant.
6. Bleed system by raising coolant reservoir tank and opening bleed screw located on the T hose on top of radiator. When solid stream of coolant comes out then air is purged from system.
7. Top system off with coolant.


To check radiator fan:
1. Drive vehicle around and bring up to operating temp
2. Shut off engine. Try to spin the radiator fan. If it spins freely, then there's a problem. If the fan is stiff, then fan is likely working correctly


Will post with further updates


Thanks


Al

 

The stock thermo is wide open by 220*. Therefore your radiator and fan are suspect. You need to get a hayden severe duty fan clutch, (amazon) and a 20$ 99-02 fan from the junk yard. Start with that and the thermostat, then do the radiator if you still have problems.