Hi All, I have a 2004 DiscoII with 70K miles on her. Haven't had any major issues but recently the trucks been a little unreliable. Every now and then the engine will crank but won't start. Unfortuanately every time I take it to the dealership it starts up right away. The first time i had it towed but by the time the dealership opened the next day she started perfectly. they had the truck for 3 weeks and finally said nothing was wrong. so i picked it up and it ran fine for the next 3mo. So a couple days ago the problem showed back up again. Same thing, engine would crank but wouldn't start...sounds like the truck is out of gas (however it had half a tank). so i finally got it started and drove it staight to the dealership. of course when they tried starting it the next day it started perfectly. From what i've read on a couple differnet posts it sounds to me like its a crankshaft sensor problem or the fuel pump. I mentioned this to the dealership and they kinda shrugged it off. It's been there for 4 days now and when i contacted them this morning, they said it's probably an ignition switch problem but they wont' know for sure until the problem actaully happens while it's there. Is there a way to tell if it's a crankshaft/fuel pump problem w/o the truck not starting? I'm not a mechanic but from what i've read online it doesnt seem like an ignition switch problem...please give me some insight...I'm very frustrated with my dealer.
Thanks in advance!

 

Hi mattburn, you can buy a CPS from BOSCH Crankshaft Sensor (Genuine Part # ERR7354) - Engine Parts For The Land Rover. If the dealer is screwing you around I'd say look up a reputable indy LR tech in your area. How old is your battery? Only reason I ask is that sometimes these rigs do funny things when the battery is old or the Alternator is on it's way out. Normally when a Crank sensor is on it's way out, it fails when it heats up.

On an unrelated note, have you ever had your front prop shaft rebuilt? If not you are approaching the danger area where it will fail and impale your transmission. Your options are to either have it rebuilt by a (again reputable) indy shop or buy a new one from one of the Rover sites (they are the same as what you'd get from the stealership and just as good).

 

what he said. Here is sheets on the CKP sensor, be careful that every nut and spacer goes back in exact order.

 

What they said. But I need to add that your dealer technicians sound like they are incompetent fools.

 

Thanks for the replies. @thebloody my battery is brand new (it's what they said must've been wrong the first time I took it in for not working), so brand new = 3mo. old. I have not had my front prop shelf rebuilt and honestly can say that I don't know what that is. Sorry if i sound like a noob but like i said before, i'm no mechanic (all i've done as far as maintance is changing my oil). However that sounds very pricey, hope that's not what is failing. From my description you all do think it's a crackshaft problem rather than an ignition switch problem...glad i'm not the only one thinking my dealership is incompetent. The only problem is it's my home dealership, you'd think after you purchase a truck from a dealer they'd be happy to help (not the case). Thanks for letting me vent, i'll keep yall posted on the final outcome.

 

Please take the time to read our tech area posting on rebuilding front prop shaft. The front propeller (drive) shaft from the factory is not fully greasable. The grease escapes or dries out, it makes a chirp or two, then splits without warning and can knock a $7,000 hole in the transmission. Got your attention? The fix before this happens ia less than $100 parts.

If it was an ignition switch problem the starter would not be tunring over. The simple test is remove a plug wire, attach to spare plug, lay on manifold, crank. If plug sparks, the CKP sesnor is not the problem. If no spark, it is prime suspect.

 

What Savannah said for testing the ignition switch. Also with regards to your drive shaft, here is what it looks like (this is a new replacement from Atlantic British) Driveshaft - Front - OE Spec (TVB000320A Same Fit As Part # TVB000320) - Land Rover driveshafts from Atlantic British. They are quite expensive so that's why we suggest you go the rout of rebuilding first.

 

Again, I want to Thank You guys for the feedback. I've been emailing back and forth with the tech guys from the dealer. I asked if the tech checked my fuel pressure, pump and ignition relays, fuses, sparks, or my inertia switch in which he replied, "He has checked everything. he does not think the crank sensor is an issue, since they normally act up when the car is hot, and you've been experiencing cold start problems
He feels like you're going to need an ingition switch, BUT that is just a guess right now.
The switch is $950.30 +tax installed."
The starting problem has been an issue when both the engine is cold and hot. However it's happened more when the engine was cold so he may have a point. What's yalls take? Are they now just trying to gouge me for some money? From what i've read ignition switch doesnt' fit the problem but maybe I haven't read the correct diagnosis. And like @Savannah said, the engine wouldn't be turning over (the engine in fact cranks everytime, it just doesnt' fire).

On another note, I'll get the front prop shaft checked out. I don't have the $7K to replace trans. I think I'm going to pick the truck up and take to another dealer (aaarrrrgggghhhhh)

 

Buy one of these to keep in truck. Lisle 19380 Spark Indicator Test without Puncturing The Wire# from auto parts store. It won't act up at the dealer so they can find it without throwing your money at it.

When it does not start, hold next to plug wire to see if you are getting spark.

 

You really want a second opinion before you jump into a switch.
By the way, how mqany miles on your truck?