OK. If you are going to take such a firm stance on this point what is the tried and tru way. I have fallowed the rave and a number of other aproaches some tried and true when applied to most other vehicals. I seams to be hit or miss and just plain luck to get all the air out.

 

The RAVE method is the Land Rover approved way to bleed.

The jfall method is something he came up with. I tried it about 6 mos ago and it worked better than the RAVE technique, though I still have a touch of waterfall noise under heavy throttle.

 

Darn, I always wondered who it was showing off on here

 

The only point I was trying to make is that the heater core is above plane with the rest of the system. Thus creating a place for air to get trapped in the system. Land Rover are not the first to do this. As far as not reading certified reference material to be better informed and to say you know better than the people who desinged the system and fully understand everything they did and what to expect when serviceing then you sir are not helping anyone. I'm a firm believer in finding a more efficient way to do things but ignoring simple physics just is not the way to go about it.

So my point is. By design these systems are prone to an air bubble that typically resides in the top of the heater core causing that waterfall sound so many people talk about. This air can migrate though the system causing all kinds of intermittent and some times cronic problems. Does this not make sense?

anyway you need to get that out and the most logical way to do this is by raising the overflow and having a bleed orifice above plane with the rest of the system. Why do you think they tell you to unclip the hose from the cowl this gets the bleeder just high enough to do its job.

So without a manual you would not know that. Sure one can force the coolant through the system by running the engine while filling it but why would you do that? land rover has provided you with a simple efctive solution that work without wasting gas. Not to mention if there is another problem then you will just heat it up and remember the inside were you have low or no coolant things heat up extremely fast not to mention this is aluminium people its heating and cooling propertys are vastly diferent than iron.

I will say it again the very first thing you should do when tracking a cooling problem is 1 bleed the system. 2 check for leeks and not just fliud coming out. some leeks are vacume leeks letting air in as the system cools for instance around hose clamps (replace those factory ones). 3 check for mechanical failure radiator, fan, pump, thermostat, ETC. 4 use the correct coolant mixture 50/50 of whatever coolant floats your boat but I did the research here it is. FYI if you read about glycol solutions they need to be mixed with the right amount of water to perform in the range you want. more or less water will change how it performs dramaticaly.


Green: ethelene glycol. 50/50
Boiling piont. +225F
Freezing piont. -36f
BTU/heat transfer. 0.8
Viscosity. 0.7

Orange. Popylene Glycal. 50/50
Boiling Piont. +287f
Freezing Piont. -29
BTU/heat transfer. 0.9
Viscosity. 0.8

So there it is. not a huge amount of performance difference on paper. But from my experience in the automotive world even the slightest increase in performance can go a long way. Then you add in the fact that its less corosive on aliminium. I think I will go for the orange stuff but you can make the green stuff work fine just watch out when facing extreme conditions.

So for those being bullies on here **** Off!! no one needs your negative bull**** go read a book and boost your inflated egos with some real useful knowledge just because you learned how to work on you car from uncle Jed in the back yard does not make anyone gods gift to cars. Most of us are here to help each other.

To all the rest read!!!!! Stay informed, ask qeustions, find answers and make informed decisions. God bless knowledge and all the places it comes from. Be positive free thinkers people.

 

Uh no. The heater core is lower than the bottle. Uh no. these systems are self bleeding, and any bubble will end up in the bottle. Uh no. the most logical way of bleeding it is to drive the front of the truck up on something high. WTF? Run the car while filling it wasting gas? Are you serious? This is a joke right? Thanks for reminding me that things get hot when there is no coolant in it. Uh no. The very first thing you should do is DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM WITH YOUR COOLING SYSTEM, NOT do a bunch of stuff.

 

Discovery II Ultimate Bleed Coolant System technique two years 11-months and 45 post.

Silly me, i fill the system, put my pressure tester on it, crimp the top heater core hose, and remove it from the heater core hose until i have a full stream of coolant, put the hose back on the heater core, pressure test and top off when cold.

 

Grabs popcorn.........

 

Well there you go again rovermaster tech. By the way who gave you the title master rover tech? You are wrong again 3/4 of a inch of the top of the heatercore is indeed above the the rest of the cooling system. Maybe the Next thing your going to tell me is the heater core isn't part of the cooling system.

Sure you can run the motor while bleeding the system but why would you? In no shop manual I have read and I have read a lot of them most note worthy are the ones I was researching when I worked RR'ing motors and transmisions for Ford at a dealership in Irondiquit New York for 5 years. Oh let me mention I was also a licensed building contractor for over 10 years and the number of automotive and other certifications I poses. Yet I dont't go around calling myself a master of anything.

I belong to these forums to trade info get help and help others Every car is the same in so many ways and yet so different.

Quit being such a D-bag and offer up something useful.

So the being said.

Cooling system diagnostics 101. (so rovermaster tech copy and post something useful)

1. Check your coolant level

2. Inspect your hoses, overflow, and, any other external components for cracks, leaks, and, wear. if anything looks funky attend to it. If all is good move on if repair problems

3. Flush the system.

4. fill the system and bleed it. Do it how ever you want but the rover way works best and its simple.

5. Optional pressure test(when the motor is cold) this will reveal any pin holes or bad clamps or seals. As I stated earlier all cooling sytems are prone to vacuum leaks when the system is cooling down.

6. now run the engine to operating temp.

7. Let it cool and add fluid if needed.

all that said if you are still overheating or looseing coolant with no visible sings of fluid on the ground you will definitly need to do a cold pressure test. just like a compression test and look for leak down in the guage. just remember land rover systems are designed for 15 psi operating range and will release pressure over that from the cap.

This test will show you if there is a internal problem and thats for another thread.

So if you are over heating after replacing all the components of the system chances are you have air in the system. For those who are frustrated like I was with this recurring problem its air migrating to the thermo housing and causing a pocket around the thermo thus letting it cool off enough to close back up. I am more than possitive about this I could see the air bubble in the housing and when I checked the temp with my laser thermometer the housing with the air pocket it read 160 to 70ish thus allowing the thermo to close. with the air out of the system the thermo housing read the same temp as the engine. This I know because I had my OBDII meter hooked and its not some cheap one and metered the full real time data set while the car was running. I guess I was wasting gas Oh wait that was the joke earlier and you didnt get it then iether.

Uless we are talking religion I'm gonna go with the science and say it does not lie. So before you go spitting back yard mechanic crap all over this forum do some research for your self and maybe apply some of that to your way of life or just leave us all alone.

I may not be a Rovermaster tech by self definition but I would like think 20 years of profesional experience in automotives and other related fields gives me leg to stand on.

To all fallowing this I hope that within the body of these post's you will find something that helps. I will no longer get into debates with Rovermaster tech. In the future I will post only the science and if I can help I will. As for this forum I have found it to be very helpful and some pretty cool discusions that have steered me in the right derection be new the the rover world but not stranger to the wrench

good day to all.

 

Did you look into upper and lower ball joints? They are notorious for being abused lol I had similar and this completely went away... well and new tires.. one tire was cupped and out of round from all the old ball joints

 

I know this is an old thread: but I've had vehicles which specifically call for not only running, but revving the engine. The most difficult and pronounced was in my MR2 since it's mid-engine with the radiator at the front of the car.
Per the Toyota manual. I know this isn't a toyota, just saying some of you were being awfully arrogant and mean spirited saying that "no car should be run... bla bla bla"
You were in fact, wrong.
I see no problem in running the car to bleed so long as you monitor temps and flow. Although I personally believe 40+ minutes of driveway revving to be highly excessive.