Discovery II Ultimate Bleed Coolant System technique
#51
I know this is an old thread: but I've had vehicles which specifically call for not only running, but revving the engine. The most difficult and pronounced was in my MR2 since it's mid-engine with the radiator at the front of the car.
Per the Toyota manual. I know this isn't a toyota, just saying some of you were being awfully arrogant and mean spirited saying that "no car should be run... bla bla bla"
You were in fact, wrong.
I see no problem in running the car to bleed so long as you monitor temps and flow. Although I personally believe 40+ minutes of driveway revving to be highly excessive.
Per the Toyota manual. I know this isn't a toyota, just saying some of you were being awfully arrogant and mean spirited saying that "no car should be run... bla bla bla"
You were in fact, wrong.
I see no problem in running the car to bleed so long as you monitor temps and flow. Although I personally believe 40+ minutes of driveway revving to be highly excessive.
#52
#53
I don't understand all the fuss.
So far I've have the system totally open twice....once to do the t-stat....once to do the radiator and bypass the throttle heater.
I filled it both times by elevating the expansion tank using the factory jack. Open bleeder, fill, close bleeder, run truck...heater on....top up, replace tank, close up and done.
No drama. No waterfall behind the dash afterwards. Nothing. Worked like a charm.
So far I've have the system totally open twice....once to do the t-stat....once to do the radiator and bypass the throttle heater.
I filled it both times by elevating the expansion tank using the factory jack. Open bleeder, fill, close bleeder, run truck...heater on....top up, replace tank, close up and done.
No drama. No waterfall behind the dash afterwards. Nothing. Worked like a charm.
#55
I haven't bled my rover in 6-8 months... haven't needed too, steady temps, always the same as per UG.
Running green coolant.
Drive your rover onto a STEEP hill, let it run, turn the heat on.
Have your wife Step on the gas, open the crosstip bleed screw, slowly, let bubbles out.
Repeat.
Drive
Repeat.
The problem with raising the bottle, is it takes to long for the bubbles to find their way there.
I've done the rover book method, garbage.
Only my opinion and what I find successful.
Running green coolant.
Drive your rover onto a STEEP hill, let it run, turn the heat on.
Have your wife Step on the gas, open the crosstip bleed screw, slowly, let bubbles out.
Repeat.
Drive
Repeat.
The problem with raising the bottle, is it takes to long for the bubbles to find their way there.
I've done the rover book method, garbage.
Only my opinion and what I find successful.
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ZachJohnson (07-08-2015)
#56
"Have your wife Step on the gas, open the crosstip bleed screw, slowly, let bubbles out.
Repeat.
Drive
Repeat"
I'm currently using this method sans wife (I've tried all the other tricks). Basically driving around then slowly backing out the crosstip bleed screw letting the air hiss out. When coolant starts to come out I tighten it, wipe up, and drive around some more. I've repeated 3x so far but still hearing the 'water' sound. Since air is coming out every time I plan to keep doing it until it goes away (or until the plastic screw head strips...). Don't know if it's "working" but it feels like progress (more so than other methods).
Any way to tell if I'm making actual progress? Should the water sound slowly go away, or is it an all-or-nothing situation (makes same noise until all air is out)?
-Zach
Repeat.
Drive
Repeat"
I'm currently using this method sans wife (I've tried all the other tricks). Basically driving around then slowly backing out the crosstip bleed screw letting the air hiss out. When coolant starts to come out I tighten it, wipe up, and drive around some more. I've repeated 3x so far but still hearing the 'water' sound. Since air is coming out every time I plan to keep doing it until it goes away (or until the plastic screw head strips...). Don't know if it's "working" but it feels like progress (more so than other methods).
Any way to tell if I'm making actual progress? Should the water sound slowly go away, or is it an all-or-nothing situation (makes same noise until all air is out)?
-Zach
#57
Elevate the overflow tank and open the bleed screw with the engine totally cold.
You don't need to park downhill or drive around first.
Do this stone cold first thing before driving.
Remove overflow tank from its seat, elevate by any means, top off, open bleed screw until you have a steady stream of flow out and then tighten bleed screw, top tank, cap tank, drive.
No wife required.
You don't need to park downhill or drive around first.
Do this stone cold first thing before driving.
Remove overflow tank from its seat, elevate by any means, top off, open bleed screw until you have a steady stream of flow out and then tighten bleed screw, top tank, cap tank, drive.
No wife required.
Last edited by Dave03S; 07-08-2015 at 10:56 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ZachJohnson (07-09-2015)
#58
Easiest, Fastest Bleed method - no RAVE, wife or breaking things
I realize older thread, but the easiest and best way to bleed you system without dismounting expansion tank (moving around older hoses is never a good idea), or a wife revving your car (asking a wife to do ANYTHING related to Disco is a serious invitation for a long sermon about your expensive piece of s**t car that always takes time away from "date nights") is this:
On STONE COLD car:
1) Open bleeder screw to halfway (do not remove). The thin line that runs down the threads will allow a small amount of air to escape.
2) Remove expansion tank cap and fill tank almost all the way (over line).
3) Cover the overflow tube (long thin plastic tube on top of expansion tank pointing at passenger seat) with your finger.
4) Place your delicate mouth over the expansion cap hole and BLOW BABY BLOW -- gently of course.
5) Once coolant starts trickling out of bleeder screw, keep blowing a bit more as air pockets will keep coming out a bit, then finger tighten. Then tighten bleeder screw with a Quarter only HALF TURN or little less. These are delicate and get brittle with age. Actually, the wall threads can also strip.
6) Tank will be almost empty, refill to line, replace cap. Have a swig of beer to get rid of disgusting coolant taste out and wipe the weird colored circle from your mouth. Apparently it's poisonous or something.
7) Drive around all day.
8) Next morning you will find the tank is exactly half full. Now top off. And your "waterfall" is fixed.That's it.
Forget all these other weird methods, including RAVE. P.S. Why exactly did land rover put an expansion tank nestled on top of electronics?!
On STONE COLD car:
1) Open bleeder screw to halfway (do not remove). The thin line that runs down the threads will allow a small amount of air to escape.
2) Remove expansion tank cap and fill tank almost all the way (over line).
3) Cover the overflow tube (long thin plastic tube on top of expansion tank pointing at passenger seat) with your finger.
4) Place your delicate mouth over the expansion cap hole and BLOW BABY BLOW -- gently of course.
5) Once coolant starts trickling out of bleeder screw, keep blowing a bit more as air pockets will keep coming out a bit, then finger tighten. Then tighten bleeder screw with a Quarter only HALF TURN or little less. These are delicate and get brittle with age. Actually, the wall threads can also strip.
6) Tank will be almost empty, refill to line, replace cap. Have a swig of beer to get rid of disgusting coolant taste out and wipe the weird colored circle from your mouth. Apparently it's poisonous or something.
7) Drive around all day.
8) Next morning you will find the tank is exactly half full. Now top off. And your "waterfall" is fixed.That's it.
Forget all these other weird methods, including RAVE. P.S. Why exactly did land rover put an expansion tank nestled on top of electronics?!
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