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I'd give it a 6.5/10 rating as the trim pieces are longer than they need to be and the paint on the screws chip easily and aren't perfectly black after being installed.
Recommended tools:
Heat gun (heating up the dash will make it easier to install the trim kit)
(there is very little room between the glass and the top of the screw, a 90 degree adapter will help a lot)
Phillips bit that fits the screws with little to no play
My dash before the kit was installed. It was flexible enough to tuck back into it's original position but it'd pop right back up.
Remove the A-pillar by pulling straight back on the trim.
The blue clips are normally in the frame of the A pillar but they might come out with the trim like these two did. If you have a speaker on your trim I'd unplug it so you can get the trim out of the way.
(ignore the screw, I took this picture after I incorrectly secured the left piece first) Notice that the right piece tucks into the left piece. You'll want to join them together before securing to figure out where the right piece sits on the dash. Secure the right piece first.
When test fitting the plastic pieces you'll want to look out for two things. 1) That the section of dash that juts out fits well into the bend of the plastic piece and 2) the edges of the plastic trim pieces hang off the edges an equal amount (see below).
Maybe there is a repair kit for D1s and D2s because I didn't expect the edges to jut out like this and for them to be a more exact fit.
You might want to start by screwing down the right side with it's edge flush to the dash. You can then mark the overhang and trim it off before you screw it down.
Don't tighten the first screw on the left plastic too tightly as that will cause the right most edge to lift up slightly.
Don't tighten any one screw too tightly since it might depress the plastic in one area and cause it to dimple lower than other areas.
I haven't secured the gauge trim surround just yet but it seems that it'll re-attach without contacting the new plastic trim.