My friend's lift is finally coming available (had to give him a spare 924/994 steering rack to get his 924S project off the lift), so I will be attempting a transfer case swap-out in the next two weeks.

Reviewing the procedure in the RAV, it says to remove the front catalytic converter pipe and the muffler?

I don't have the D2 handy at the moment (it's at my buddy's ranch awaiting the swap out) to crawl under and take a look, but I don't recall the exhaust being in the way of dropping the transfer case.

Am I right or wrong on this? (RAV also says to remove the prop shafts, but I am guessing you only have to disconnect the respective prop shaft flanges connecting to the front and rear output shafts on the transfer case and then tying them outta the way with some baling wire)

Just want to be mentally prepared for the extra steps/work if needed.

 

yes, you need to remove the cat pipes and muffler,.....unless you are taking the T case out the top....
so usually the down pipe 3 studs/nuts are rusted, so be prepared for broken exhaust mani studs and the required work to repair them....

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e6/#post713860

although I do not use copper nuts anymore, changed to stainless w/lock washers. Replace the exhaust clamp bolts with stainless as well

 

unless you are taking the T case out the top....

A joke, right? Don't know what this means "out of the top".

The manifold-to-cat pipe was disconnected about 6-7 years ago (for an engine rebuild due to a slIpped sleeve), actually came off pretty easily once I used a little penetrating oil, and I anti-seized them when I put it back together. But have never had the cat pipe-to-muffler disconnected. Good news is that my friend with the lift also has torches (so heat).

The beast has never been anywhere but San Diego and Austin, so the underside is pretty pristine: no rust anywhere.

Bummer about cat pip as I really hate getting to those front O2 sensor connectors mounted up on the firewall (never done anything with the rear connectors but assuming they are a lot easier to get at than the front ones. Any advice on how to disconnect them? Better to get the from above or below (when on a lift)?

And all 8 of the 10mm(?) bolts holding the crossmember on are head stripped (i.e., rounded, but not by me but my the [previous owners or his mechanic -- he took it religiously to SD Land Rover for service and am guessing when they did a transfer case gear oil renewal they stripped the heads), could never get them loose with vice grips so bought a set of those rounded bolt head removal sockets -- hope they work -- but again, we will have acetylene grade heat if needed.

 

I didn't have to remove the exhaust to drop my t-case. You do have to remove the crossmember though.

 

Cross member is going to be a PITA as the bolt heads are stripped.

But good to know you don't need to remove the cat pipe -- it's not the cat pipe that bugs me so much as it is the O2 sensor connectors: I have real issues with how the English design their connectors (they must let the engineering interns do it).

 

ummmm....maybe this pic (of another LRF member) will help you decide what is in the way regarding the exhaust....

 

I just did a T case swap. It was defiantly easier to have dropped It with the exhaust out of the way. No question about it for me. Happy to share what made life a lot easier if you want.

one cross member on the truck dropped right out, one I had to cut. Miserable. The 3 Guide bolts were very nice. Remove output shaft- to drop from tunnel easier. Have your seals on hand (in put, output, intermediate) lube linkage..

if you have time to make, or source a cradle for the T case. ( I have one If you want to ship it to use it)

 

Sorry, one more thing: The O2 sensor connectors are likely not LR design. Most likely GM or Bosch...these are easily found in junk yards in many vehicles of different makes from same era....in fact, these are fairly standard front and rear O2 connectors (front and rears are physically different). Which is why if you break a connector or need a new one, don't buy LR, get a cheap used part out of junk yard... The Japanese connectors are often different....

 

I love the underside pic -- did you roll it just for illustrative purposes or are you suggesting this is perhaps the best position from which to access the transfer case

Guess I am removing the exhaust, again not looking forward to those O2 sensor connectors.

The transfer case I picked up has 113K miles, was planning to replace the input shaft seal, but not the front or rear output shaft seals. Do you think it's really necessary on a relatively low mileage transfer case.

And I may take you up on the cradle. I was just going to cut a piece of 10"x10" post I have lying around to 32.5 degrees, then strap the transfer case to the the transmission lift my buddy has, using the angled block of wood to steady it at the correct angle.

But my brother just got back from Florida (doing FEMA work) and he has pretty good shop (Bridgeport Mill, South Bend Lathe, band saws, all sorts of welders, etc), so was going to ask him to make me a cradle from the plans I got elsewhere on the forum. But then, just shipping a known good cradle back and forth might be easier -- do you make yours or buy the actual "tool"? Stay tuned.

And I am making the guide studs from some 6" M10 1.5 bolts I bought: I'll cut the heads off, bevel them a bit and put a slot in the beveled end to facilitate screwing them in all the way. I want going to use fully threaded rod instead but figured the smoother shaft of a partly thread bolt would make it easier to slide the case on and off. Thoughts?

Finally, what do you mean by "remove the output shaft"?

 

Transmission output shaft