has anyone replaced the door check on a discovery 2? the drivers side one on mine is kaput. snapping very loud when opening/closing the door.

I put a new roll pin on it last year....not help. greased the snot out of it. no help. I can see the slop in the arm moving in/out when the door opens/closes.

Looking for any helpful hints on removing/replacing it. a video would be super nice. thx.

 

Do you have an early 99 build, or a 2000 model year or later?

The reason I ask - the 99’s had annoying early style door checks that are junk (and always click and break even). They got better in 00 model year, but still sometimes have issues on really high use trucks.

 

2003 model year.

 

OK. Sadly these door checks are currently (forever) NLA from Land Rover, I remember they were expensive and overpriced anyway, couple hundred dollars each.

Your best bet is new pins and going to salvage yard and removing one yourself from a pick n pull that’s not making your noises and works properly. Use one from the passenger door, maybe it’s gotten less use. It’s 2 bolts inside the door jamb and removing the door panel.

Here it is on an early Freelander - same deal really to replace. (ish). https://lr4x4.com/topic/82242-door-c...al-and-repair/

So -- then this is a separate problem that you really hope you don’t have -- where the weld on the body/car side is broken. Sometimes this crack is very hard to see but you can figure it out by watching the metal flex. I’ve seen this on a lot of high mileage D2’s -- https://www.landroversonly.com/threa...-welds.143457/

 

the movement is on the arm/pin in the metal bracket that attaches to the A pillar. there is wear in that hole allowing the movement. I guess it's time
to break out the welder.

 

Did you search on Rimmer Bros?

 

just did. they have the door check (292 pounds - YIKES). I don't think the "slop" is there...but on the part that is welded onto the A pillar. the pin
is 6.2mm in the center section looking for a sleeve that I can insert into this piece to make it 100% round again. hopefully that will resolve the movement.

 

just put a replacement door check in. same snapping/popping when opening/closing the door. definitely not the check but the movement inside the bracket.

the bracket is welded to the truck A pillar ...right? so snagging one at a junker is going to mean cutting/and welding anyway...so I might as well attempt to
put weld on the 2 holes and re-drill them to 6.2mm.

 

here is what I'm thinking of doing instead of getting a welder involved...



drilling the hole in the bracket out (which is already out of shape) to 3/8". take one of these and cut it down to a length of 3mm which is what each side of the bracket is.

then press it in from the top using loctite red to keep it in place. that should bring it back to a 1/4" hole again.

 

It probably doesn't make a big difference, but the green loctite 609 is made for holding bushings in their holes.