Door lock cylinder wafers
#1
Door lock cylinder wafers
Years ago I had the broken lock shaft problem where the lock cylinder would simply spin. I solved that problem by crafting a replacement shaft from a 20d nail.
Now I have the opposite problem. The key won't turn in the door lock at all.
A locksmith told me the problem is often that the wafers get gummed up and that I should "lube the hell out of it" and keep working it with the key.
I removed the door handle and did as instructed. I can see that the wafers move freely against their springs, but one wafer doesn't move at all when the key is inserted. As I was inspecting and lubing/cleaning the wafers a small piece of brass fell out. I expect that it's the back side of the offending wafer and that the offending wafer will need to be replaced.
I'll try today to find a locksmith to repair it the lock but as with so many things Rover I'm expecting a lot of "I don't work on Rovers" replies. Sheesh.
It also occurred to me that if the (expected) broken wafer can't be replaced perhaps it can simply be removed. The remaining wafers would still allow the lock to work.
I know I could always just get a new door handle but I of course don't want to end up needing two keys. I also know I could buy a matched door and ignition cylinder set from abran or Paul or somewhere else but I've read how much of a PITA changing the ignition cylinder is.
I found an interesting thread on this forum from a couple years ago suggesting that the DII key can be cut differently on each of its two sides since only one side of the key actually does the work in either the door or the ignition. The only trick to that would be knowing which side of the key works in the door and the ignition but a little spot of paint or a groove cut in it would address that problem. I had an extra drivers door handle lying around here a few years ago but I now can't find it.
For now the truck can be locked and unlocked using the keyless entry system but we all know that could fail at any time. A backup system is always advised.
Anyway, do any of you have experience getting a DII door lock rekeyed?
Now I have the opposite problem. The key won't turn in the door lock at all.
A locksmith told me the problem is often that the wafers get gummed up and that I should "lube the hell out of it" and keep working it with the key.
I removed the door handle and did as instructed. I can see that the wafers move freely against their springs, but one wafer doesn't move at all when the key is inserted. As I was inspecting and lubing/cleaning the wafers a small piece of brass fell out. I expect that it's the back side of the offending wafer and that the offending wafer will need to be replaced.
I'll try today to find a locksmith to repair it the lock but as with so many things Rover I'm expecting a lot of "I don't work on Rovers" replies. Sheesh.
It also occurred to me that if the (expected) broken wafer can't be replaced perhaps it can simply be removed. The remaining wafers would still allow the lock to work.
I know I could always just get a new door handle but I of course don't want to end up needing two keys. I also know I could buy a matched door and ignition cylinder set from abran or Paul or somewhere else but I've read how much of a PITA changing the ignition cylinder is.
I found an interesting thread on this forum from a couple years ago suggesting that the DII key can be cut differently on each of its two sides since only one side of the key actually does the work in either the door or the ignition. The only trick to that would be knowing which side of the key works in the door and the ignition but a little spot of paint or a groove cut in it would address that problem. I had an extra drivers door handle lying around here a few years ago but I now can't find it.
For now the truck can be locked and unlocked using the keyless entry system but we all know that could fail at any time. A backup system is always advised.
Anyway, do any of you have experience getting a DII door lock rekeyed?
#2
Years ago I had the broken lock shaft problem where the lock cylinder would simply spin. I solved that problem by crafting a replacement shaft from a 20d nail.
Now I have the opposite problem. The key won't turn in the door lock at all.
A locksmith told me the problem is often that the wafers get gummed up and that I should "lube the hell out of it" and keep working it with the key.
I removed the door handle and did as instructed. I can see that the wafers move freely against their springs, but one wafer doesn't move at all when the key is inserted. As I was inspecting and lubing/cleaning the wafers a small piece of brass fell out. I expect that it's the back side of the offending wafer and that the offending wafer will need to be replaced.
I'll try today to find a locksmith to repair it the lock but as with so many things Rover I'm expecting a lot of "I don't work on Rovers" replies. Sheesh.
It also occurred to me that if the (expected) broken wafer can't be replaced perhaps it can simply be removed. The remaining wafers would still allow the lock to work.
I know I could always just get a new door handle but I of course don't want to end up needing two keys. I also know I could buy a matched door and ignition cylinder set from abran or Paul or somewhere else but I've read how much of a PITA changing the ignition cylinder is.
I found an interesting thread on this forum from a couple years ago suggesting that the DII key can be cut differently on each of its two sides since only one side of the key actually does the work in either the door or the ignition. The only trick to that would be knowing which side of the key works in the door and the ignition but a little spot of paint or a groove cut in it would address that problem. I had an extra drivers door handle lying around here a few years ago but I now can't find it.
For now the truck can be locked and unlocked using the keyless entry system but we all know that could fail at any time. A backup system is always advised.
Anyway, do any of you have experience getting a DII door lock rekeyed?
Now I have the opposite problem. The key won't turn in the door lock at all.
A locksmith told me the problem is often that the wafers get gummed up and that I should "lube the hell out of it" and keep working it with the key.
I removed the door handle and did as instructed. I can see that the wafers move freely against their springs, but one wafer doesn't move at all when the key is inserted. As I was inspecting and lubing/cleaning the wafers a small piece of brass fell out. I expect that it's the back side of the offending wafer and that the offending wafer will need to be replaced.
I'll try today to find a locksmith to repair it the lock but as with so many things Rover I'm expecting a lot of "I don't work on Rovers" replies. Sheesh.
It also occurred to me that if the (expected) broken wafer can't be replaced perhaps it can simply be removed. The remaining wafers would still allow the lock to work.
I know I could always just get a new door handle but I of course don't want to end up needing two keys. I also know I could buy a matched door and ignition cylinder set from abran or Paul or somewhere else but I've read how much of a PITA changing the ignition cylinder is.
I found an interesting thread on this forum from a couple years ago suggesting that the DII key can be cut differently on each of its two sides since only one side of the key actually does the work in either the door or the ignition. The only trick to that would be knowing which side of the key works in the door and the ignition but a little spot of paint or a groove cut in it would address that problem. I had an extra drivers door handle lying around here a few years ago but I now can't find it.
For now the truck can be locked and unlocked using the keyless entry system but we all know that could fail at any time. A backup system is always advised.
Anyway, do any of you have experience getting a DII door lock rekeyed?
But in an event that your battery dies, something like this is a very cheap install. I had these in all my discos incase battery dies. I just leave it near the grill where I can reach to jump battery. Its a winch connector.
#3
I found another thread here describing taking apart the door lock cylinder and removing a broken wafer to get the lock to work. I tried that today. I removed a C clip and retaining ring, but I can't figure out how to get the lock further apart to be able to remove the broken wafer. Please chime in if you have any experience with this. Thanks.
#5
#6
#7
I'll appreciate any further guidance, please.]
You also need to have the tumbler separated from the handle/lock assemble to access.
......
Last edited by number9; 08-06-2017 at 01:59 AM.
#8
I have removed the gasket that fits between the handle and the door and I have removed the Philips-head screw but I haven't been able to take it apart further.
#9
Im not at the shop for another week, so don't have one to reference.
Take it to a local old school locksmith, he will get the tumbler separated.