I noticed a post where someone had found a source for the tension spring for the doors latches on a Discovery I. Source on ebay out of the UK. While reading one of the threads, I noticed that someone had referenced a writeup on another land rover forum that had pictures and a very good write up. I scanned a few more posts, went back and couldn't find the post with the write up. It has now been about two hours and no luck. I think that the post was made by candiman or okdiscoguy. Help, I got a quote for $800 to replace the front and rear door latch mechanisms on the driver's side only, about 1/4 the value of the vehicle. The replacement springs seem to be the answer to the door **** issue, finally. thanks Phil 99 Disco I

 

Repair on my 1999 DI drivers door and rear left-side door by replacing the door **** springs within the door latches.

I ordered some replacement springs form Phillipstuart33 on ebay, took about a week to get the spings from the UK to San Diego. I got 5 new springs, one for each door and one for the rear cargo door. The two left side door latch springs are unique, the right side and the cargo doors are the same. The two rear doors have two small springs in them, the front doors have one small spring. One of the two on the rear seat door latch and the one in the front latch control the "snap" of the door ****, your door **** should make a distinct snap up or snap down. If the spring breaks, the door **** will go down enough to lock but will not stay up enough to allow the door latch to open the door. you can test the spring function by manually pushing the door know down or pulling it up. My front door would not open from the outside without turning the key and puling on the exterior door handle at the same time. On the interior, I would have to pull the door **** up and them pull on the door handle. On the rear, on the first opening after using the remote, the door would not open without pulling up on the door **** and then pulling on the door handle.

After replacing the springs, $5 each vs. $180 each for new latches, the door locks work like clockwork!

The rear latch was much easier to remove and replace than the front. Use the RAVE as a guide. You will also want to invest in a door panel removal tool, about $8 at your local auto parts store. You will also need a small mirror and a bright flashlight or other light source. I recommend that you print out and keep handy the image of the latch and the various rods that connect the latch, and interior and exterior handles.

The front door latch is a bit more of a chore. After removing the door panel, you need to remove the lock actuator, 4 bolts, be careful there is a metal plate on the back of the top two bolts that will fall off. Again, refer to the RAVE for instuctions. In short, you will need to raise the window frame up about 12 inches to get the latch out. You will need to remove the two bolts on the inside of the door at the bottom of each leg of the window frame. Then remove the two torx bolts, one on the latch end of the door and one on the front inside jam. the one on the front is tight, I used a torx screwdriver bit and turned it with a small open ended wrench. there was not enough room to use a ratchet or a handle. You will also need to pull of the interior outside mirror cover and unplug the electrical connection on for the mirror. Be careful as you disconnect the various connecting rods on the latch, it is easy to forget how they all go back together, again the RAVE has a diagram that is very helpful. R and R the spring, put the latch back in, connect it up and away you go. The local independent wanted $800, labor and two new latches, I did it in about 3 1/2 hours (including about an hour trying to find a rod clip that fell and disappeared in a gap between the door skin and the framework of the door; mirrors, magnets, picks and still no clip.....), and $10 in parts. It is easier than it appears. What a relief to have the doors fixed. By the way, the door latch had a GM stamp on it. I wonder if it was used on any US model of vehicle. I am sure that the replacement latch and/or spring would be much less that the dealer supplied part or the spring from Phillipstuart33.

All the best, Phil
1999 DI
2001 DII

 

Hello Phill

You sent me a email a few weeks ago and I just realized I never replied. Sorry about that. But it seems like you have successfully replaced your door latch springs. I have to agree, it's like night and day after replacing a broken spring. Glad to see the Phillipstuart in UK is still selling the springs. You pretty much mentioned all the vital points when replacing the spring, but here's a link to my Cardomain with some pics for others.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3002336/6

 

thanks Mike, your writeup was great, helped get me into this project. i forgot to print out a copy of the RAVE until I had fought with the latch linkage for about 15 minutes and couldn't remember how all of the rods connected up. Also be sure to the mounts for the door pull are properly adjusted BEFORE you put the plastic moisture barrier, and door panel back on the truck. In my rush to get it done, I forgot. The mounts were off by about a 1/4 inch, making it impossible to get the bols in. I ended up reaming out the holes on the door pull enough to allow the bolts to be inserted and tightened up. You may also want to order up a few extra of the blue door panel mount/screw type securing parts. A few of mine were tweeked which made them a liittle more difficult to use. All the best. Phil

 

You can buy door latch springs from Cristian Autos Kingswood Bristol. They do mail order and you can find their tel No. on the internet

 

Had same door lock issues in my 97 D1. Driver door and both rear doors locked fine, unlock intermittent/partial. UK guy is still selling springs on ebay and they come with decent instructions with pictures. Confirming RAVE printout is really handy. Confirming be careful with the little interior rod latches, lost one on the front and kludged a fix with two small zip ties around the rod and its mating piece in a X pattern. Front door is more difficult as described, you definitely need to pull the window frame up a bit, but handy time to look for and repair any rust. I unbolted mirror from door frame, but don't think you need to do that, just the connector as previously described. Rear doors are way easier, taught my 21yo daughter how to change it. FYI, did not have right sized torx to get bolts on lock actuator, used vise grip pliers instead, worked fine. Also, check exterior and interior door lock release handles before buttoning up, may need some adjustment (rods on front are threaded, rotate to adjust; no such adjustment on rear but the release handle bracket has a little side-to-side adjustment, had to adjust on one rear door. Also, note that there is a child lock mechanism on the underside of the rear doors, check that first if the rear doors don't open from inside, move it away from door latch for normal operation, toward door latch to prevent inside door releases from working (yes, I almost took the door apart again but remembered this last minute, turned out child lock was on).

 

curious if I can refresh this thread and ask if the intermittent symptoms are due to weak springs or broke?
the spring mentioned is it easily visible and small or deep inside the "striker" on the edge of the door?

Thanks

 

Usually broke and you can get a used working assembly off of eBay pretty cheap or get you one from a pull a part if you have one close.