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Door lock switch kills engine

Old Oct 30, 2024 | 08:42 AM
  #11  
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Thank you for the advice! Which ground straps are you referring to? The ones on the engine block?
 
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 09:04 AM
  #12  
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When I said, "They must all be in place," I literally meant all of them. Our trucks are very sensitive to bad battery and bad grounds. More so than most other vehicles. It will probably be the one servicing the BCU, I suspect that when you cleaned up the connections before, you cleaned up half of the problem. Now you need to solve the other half of the problem...I'm guessing. Definitely clean up the block/body strap, and the connections surrounding the battery. If you discover that any are missing - anywhere, replace them.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2024 | 09:19 AM
  #13  
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Excellent, thank you so much for clarifying! That makes perfect sense to me after looking at the relevant wiring diagrams. I will start investigating grounding points, staring with the BCU ground, until the issue is solved! Ill include an image with ground locations for any future readers:
Discovery II Ground Locations
Discovery II Ground Locations:
 
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 01:08 PM
  #14  
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Based on the labeled image I shared in my previous reply, have examined C0017, C0018, C0551, C0558, C0559, C0560, C1000, C1001, C0561, C0562, C0563, and C0564 grounds to make sure they are in good condition, and they seem to be (I haven't checked for continuity yet, but they all look very good, and the fasteners are tight). Does anyone know where the C0910 and the C0362 grounds are and how to access them? These are the two I most suspect to be a cause of this issue. However, I have not been able to find them after looking in these areas thoroughly.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 08:02 AM
  #15  
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I believe I have checked all of the grounds, and have not been able to find any issues. My next step is to disconnect the battery and remove the BCU to examine it for problems (like corrosion or dry pins). If this doesn't work, I'll order a new fuse box and BCU and a Nanocom to pair the new BCU. If anyone has any thoughts in the meantime, let me know!
 
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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 09:20 AM
  #16  
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Watching this thread intently. Years later I'm still having this issue as well. Replaced all items individually and have been through my wiring as well as I could. I've opened up the BCU and ECU and fusebox, treated them with Corrosion X just for the hell of it and some waterproofing. I've replaced all of them individually multiple times but always with parts pulled from a junkyard. Issue persists. I've resorted to a quick rev of the engine during unlock to avoid stalling.
Gotta be some Corrosion causing a ground path issue somewhere.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 09:29 AM
  #17  
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Thanks for the reply DodyDisco! This information is actually very helpful to me. I think Ill avoid wasting time and money throwing parts at it, and take a more analytical approach. I am a Mechanical Engineer and my Dad is an Electrical Engineer, and we have been reviewing the RAVE wiring diagrams and wiring on my Discovery together in depth. I think we will double down on this until we solve the issue. I agree with you that it is likely either corrosion, a short, or a loose ground. I'll still go ahead and examine my BCU for issues, and I will be sure to update here as I find things out.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2024 | 09:53 AM
  #18  
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I'll recap my observations so far:

- Locking or unlocking the car with either the Dash Switch or the Key Fob causes all dash lights to illuminate, the rear windshield wiper to swipe, and the car to shut off (if it is running).
- The door locks are reluctant to actuate (seem low on power) if the lock/unlock is pressed while the car is running. However, they work reliably when the car is off (dash lights and rear wiper still activate when car is off).
- Locking seems to have a more significant affect than unlocking (causes same symptoms more consistently and intensely)
- If I rev the engine while I lock/unlock the doors it tends to stay alive, but not always.
- The engine dying is not related to battery/alternator voltage (I have measured voltage while locking and causing a shut off, and voltage does not drop)
- Weather (humidity/moisture) seems to affect the issue either for better or worse: Sometimes the issue comes back after a hard rain, sometimes it goes away after a hard rain.
- My original solution to clean the Fuse box seemed to solve the problem for a while. While it seems the box itself was not the issue, this directs my attention towards this area (wiring/connectors/grounds). It is possible that I inadvertently moved something and temporarily improved the loose connection that is causing the issue.
- I have been experiencing intermittent running/power issues that seem related (though may not necessarily be).

Let me know which of these symptoms your 2001 shares with my 1999 DodyDisco, and which, if any, you are not experiencing.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2025 | 09:27 PM
  #19  
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I ordered and installed another fuse box, and it solved all issues!


Keep in mind when replacing the dash fuse box that there are four model #s for the 1999-2002 year models (each is identical): Part # YQE000410, YQE000250, YQE000110, YQE103830, and one model # for the 2003-2004 year models: Part # YQE000251.

I was able to find mine on Ebay for just over $100 with shipping, but it took some searching. Good luck!
 
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