Are dowty washers reusable?
I'm considering renewing the rod and main bearings on the bottom end of my '03 Disco II 4.6 V8 this weekend.
Are the dowty washers that fit around the cross bolts for the main bearing caps reusable, or should they be renewed if they are removed?
Thanks!
Are the dowty washers that fit around the cross bolts for the main bearing caps reusable, or should they be renewed if they are removed?
Thanks!
Hi drowssap,
Thanks for the tip. Am I correct in interpreting your comment that as I am doing the torquing sequence on the mains, that I should be rotating the crank a few turns during that process? Is there any specific point in the procedure I should be doing that (say, between first and second torquing)?
For the con rod bearings, should I be rotating the crank in between each bearing or bearing set?
Thanks in advance for clarification!
Thanks for the tip. Am I correct in interpreting your comment that as I am doing the torquing sequence on the mains, that I should be rotating the crank a few turns during that process? Is there any specific point in the procedure I should be doing that (say, between first and second torquing)?
For the con rod bearings, should I be rotating the crank in between each bearing or bearing set?
Thanks in advance for clarification!
yes, exactly rotate the crank after you tighten each main and rod. you want to make sure that nothining is binding. otherwise your get to the end and it is bound up you down know where to begin looking for the problem
Drowssap - thanks, makes sense!
0304Disco - yes, agreed. However, I didn't have time to get them by mail order, and tomorrow is my only window of opportunity for a few weeks. I'm going to stop by the local stealer to see if they have them in stock. If they do, I'll be renewing them as well. If not...I'll add a dab of hylomar around each.
0304Disco - yes, agreed. However, I didn't have time to get them by mail order, and tomorrow is my only window of opportunity for a few weeks. I'm going to stop by the local stealer to see if they have them in stock. If they do, I'll be renewing them as well. If not...I'll add a dab of hylomar around each.
Drowssap - thanks, makes sense!
0304Disco - yes, agreed. However, I didn't have time to get them by mail order, and tomorrow is my only window of opportunity for a few weeks. I'm going to stop by the local stealer to see if they have them in stock. If they do, I'll be renewing them as well. If not...I'll add a dab of hylomar around each.
0304Disco - yes, agreed. However, I didn't have time to get them by mail order, and tomorrow is my only window of opportunity for a few weeks. I'm going to stop by the local stealer to see if they have them in stock. If they do, I'll be renewing them as well. If not...I'll add a dab of hylomar around each.
Just me, but I would never do this while the engine is still in the truck and allow my timing chain to support the crank as I believe is in a write-up, just me, not saying it will do any damage to the chain.
Plus if your laying on your back under the truck torquing the mains would be a complete pain.
I'm going to do it while the engine is in the truck.
Fortunately, I have a friend with a lift and practically an entire Snap-On truck's worth of tools in his garage, so no need to lay down under the truck for the procedure.
As for the crank being supported by the timing chain, I was actually less worried about that and more about disturbing the rear main seal.
I was thinking that I wouldn't actually remove the main caps all at once, but simply let them all down an 1/8" or so to get clearance to push out the top bearing shells with the feeler gauge. Obviously, I'd be taking the bottom cap off of whatever bearing I was moving out at any given time. Does that make sense?
Fortunately, I have a friend with a lift and practically an entire Snap-On truck's worth of tools in his garage, so no need to lay down under the truck for the procedure.
As for the crank being supported by the timing chain, I was actually less worried about that and more about disturbing the rear main seal.
I was thinking that I wouldn't actually remove the main caps all at once, but simply let them all down an 1/8" or so to get clearance to push out the top bearing shells with the feeler gauge. Obviously, I'd be taking the bottom cap off of whatever bearing I was moving out at any given time. Does that make sense?


