Howdy folks,

The title says it all... 5 out of 6 studs came out fine. The hardest stud - the right on the driver side - broke off with less than 1/4" sticking out. I have one more trick up the sleeve, but then plan to drill it out. If you have done this job, I got a few questions.

1. Is it possible to drill the stud out w/o taking the manifold off? I sized things up and it seems like I can do that... but will have to spend some time on the ground.
2. What's the best approach? Start with a small bit, drill through, and then enlarge?
3. What bits do you recommend? I have not drilled serious metal.

Thank you!

 

If you have welding capability I'd be tempted to try welding a nut onto it and spinning it out.

If you have to drill it, grind the top flat if you can get a grinder in. Center punch as centered if you can. Pre drill with ~1/8". Use cutting fluid such as WD-40. Then come back and drill one size under the bolt size. If you centered well you may be able to clean the threads out and stick another stud in. Otherwise you will have to drill it all out, helicoil in, and then put a stud back.

Most any drill bits will work. I usually just buy the DeWalt bits because they're reasonably priced and last reasonably well. Again, use cutting fluid. Drilling metal requires (relatively) low speed and high pressure. I don't mean have your drill running as slow as you can, but don't have her spinning away full speed. If you have a speed selection I'd choose the lowest speed and then keep the trigger depressed fully, and press hard as you can manage without breaking the drill bit.

 

I don't think I can get the grinder there, but I'll try an osculating tool.

Is there any advantage to a stud vs. a bolt? I looked at the angles--there is little chance I can be dead on center, so there is a good chance I'll damage the threads.

 

If you can't get in straight and damage the threads a bolt may provide some benefit. You could drill the hole slightly oversize and drop a bolt in from the top, or place a nut on top of you don't have clearance to get a bolt thru from above.

 

I recently dealt with this, and I will say, the manifolds came off with great ease. I was worried about it but the bolts all came right out, and the Y-pipe broken studs were much easier to deal with out of the car than in. Your mileage may vary, but I would at least see how much challenge the manifold bolts will be before I just write that path off.

 

I'm with this guy^^^^. Removing the manifolds is relatively painless (I've done a half-dozen at least) and dealing with that bolt in situ will suck. You'll stand a much greater chance of success on a bench.

 

Im with Alex_M, you need heat on it, I would fit a nut ove rthe stub and weld it to the stub and allow the hear to travel maybe hit it a few time to make sure the heat has travelled all the way down thw stud, the other otion is to get/hire and induction heater and get the stud stump read hot a few time but don not try and remove it untill it black and colled down

there are cheaper ones but this give you the idea

 

I'll add my concurrence to what sqlbullet and ahab wrote. Remove the manifold from the head. It will be much easier that way, regardless of what comes next. I've had no problem removing exhaust manifold bolts, but as sqlbullet wrote YMMV.

 

If I understand correctly, for each manifold I need to remove only 8 bolts. The driver side looks busy on top, but if I loosen the 8 bolts it should be it [RAVE page 449]. Am I missing something?

 

That's correct, eight bolts to remove an exhaust manifold.

Now that you say it's on the driver side you'll have to maneuver the manifold past the A/C lines. Plus since you have an '04 you may have SAI plumbing to complicate removal too. Maybe this isn't the easier path! I don't know whether or not there's enough room to maneuver it out past the frame rail and exhaust down below.

If you do try to remove it, don't let the 12 pt. heads on the bolts concern you. A 6-pt,, 13 mm socket will work fine. If you get it removed I'd install fresh gaskets. They're inexpensive. Plus be sure to apply anti-seize compound to the bolts when reinstalling them.