OK, I know there are a lot of threads out there on this topic and lots of good info on how to get one of the small motors for a frozen actuator and all that, but I think I have a bit of a different issue.

The key (see what I did there?) difference I have at the moment is I don’t have a functioning key fob, so until I find one used or I pay the man the ridiculous amount for a new one, I use the key in the driver’s door. The central locks work just fine with one exception: if I turn the key in the driver’s door lock cylinder 45 degrees either clockwise or counter clockwise, all the doors lock and unlock as they should EXCEPT the driver’s door. In order to lock that door, I need to turn the key to 90 degrees in either direction to lock or unlock the driver’s door. While sitting in the vehicle and using the switch on the dash, it lock the driver’s door, but will not unlock it- that is done by pulling the door handle.

I’ve been scouring in the Rave on this and the best I can ascertain is the driver’s door lock actuator actually has it’s own separate connection in addition to the connections for the remaining doors (that all act as one). Given the switch on the dash locking the door as it should, I don’t think it’s the typical motor has failed scenario I don’t think (unless the motor works one way and not the other?).

Is this the normal function? I don’t think it is, and I can’t recall from my past Discos, so just wanted to confirm. Should I just pull the actuator and expect to need one of the little motors? Is this is a setting in the Nanocom I can do? I know there are various settings you can do for the central locking and just didn’t know.

 

Sounds like a relay is not working as it should, You the same motor locks and unlocks, but different relays, check the wiring diagrams.

 

I faced a similar situation last year, ie.,I can lock all doors using the central dash switch. However, the driver side will not unlock when using the central dash switch. I ended up replacing the driver side door actuator motor which worked.

 

Thanks, guys. I’ll go over the wiring to determine where the relay is and verify.

 

Just to close this out, I paid the man and got a new key. Took about a minute to program with the Nanocom. Zero issues.

But I have fully determined I have the typical door lock actuator failure in the driver’s door. I was mistaken when I said the button in the cab made the driver’s door lock and unlock. So I think I’ll do the little motor repair and see if that gets me.

Thanks again for the input.

 

This video for me is the best video out there for replacing the door actuator. I used it to replace my drver side door actutator last year:


One word of advice not mentioned in his video, there may be some torx screws hidden under the thick black "dum dum" patty material (see circled). I was struggling to get the actuator assembly out even though I followed the steps in the video. His video did not mention this. Good luck!

 

Yep, I’ve done door lock actuators before and the second video is the one I used last time. The deal for me is going to be to try and put a new motor in the actuator itself as I think that’s the issue.

 

To answer your question, after years of having d2's I don't think diagnosis on the drivers door actuator is worth it. Just replace it when it starts acting up. Will make your life much easier.

 

It’s a Disco, nothing is easy, no matter how easy it seems.

I accidentally super locked the doors yesterday and the secondary motor worked- which terrified me as I’ve read the horror stories of superlocking. Thankfully it all worked- including the driver’s door- but I won’t be doing that on a regular basis.

I figure I’ll give the motor replacement a go as they are only a few bucks and unless I can find a used lock actuator for cheap, that seems the best way to go. I’m pretty pissed at the Disco right now (typical) so I’m not spending the $$$ for a new one.