clint70
Rock Crawling
close
- Join DateOct 2014
- LocationColorado Springs
- Posts:347
-
Likes:111
-
Liked:6 Times in 5 Posts
So, yesterday... my 2001 D2's driver and rear main door locks stopped working. Don't really know where to start. Hoping it's a fuse or something simple. Using the FOB to lock the doors, all except the two work fine.
Thoughts? Really could use everyone's input. I do have a donor truck with actuators (that work - I hope). But don't want to do the work if not needed. Thanks
Thoughts? Really could use everyone's input. I do have a donor truck with actuators (that work - I hope). But don't want to do the work if not needed. Thanks

Rock Crawling
You're sure they both stopped working at the same time, right? If so, it's highly unlikely to be mechanical failure of both actuators. Probably some sort of electrical issue you'll have to investigate further.
clint70
Rock Crawling
close
- Join DateOct 2014
- LocationColorado Springs
- Posts:347
-
Likes:111
-
Liked:6 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Actually I am not 100% on that, and I am playing around with the locks right now. It seems like the actuator just died on the drivers side. Not sure about the rear door and when it stopped working. For the moment I will focus on the drivers door. Originally Posted by batard
You're sure they both stopped working at the same time, right? If so, it's highly unlikely to be mechanical failure of both actuators. Probably some sort of electrical issue you'll have to investigate further.
Does anyone have experience with the replacing the actuator? Can I do a quick disconnect of the old one and plug into the replacement to see if it will actuate? Just to confirm that it will work before going through the process of taking apart and putting back together... without knowing.
Thanks for help.
Cheers!!
Rock Crawling
I replaced my driver's door actuator earlier this year. It's a straight-up plug-and-play and you can probably test it, although not fully because you won't have the mechanical bits installed. I'm not aware of any way to do any of this "quickly," though. You'll have to at least remove the door card, pull back the plastic lining and unplug the electrical connector. It may be difficult to get the electrical connector into the new one to test it because the fit is kind of tight. It's not a tough job, but it's a fiddly one that involves removing a lot of parts, including loosening up the window frame at least on the front ones.
Related Topics
- Driver's Door Lock Actuator Replacement ALR9783
- New door lock actuator not opening from outside without a jerk on the door handle
- Key lock issue with driver's door. Just replaced Door Latch Actuator Assy
- Have a new door lock actuator, but cant get my left rear door open now
- WTB: disco II driver door lock actuator, T4 mobile