Driveshaft - 03 Discovery II
#22
07-22-2017, 09:53 PM
I bought the lucky8 driveshaft from their eBay store, had to return one because the centering ball squeaked at low speeds. My replacement does the same, I don't think it's going to fail and can't be bothered to return another one. I'm considering buying a centering ball with a grease fitting and replacing it.
If I were you I'd either get the lucky8 driveshaft and replace it myself, or buy the 120-$130 ones on eBay now and get a grease gun. It will probably take an hr to swap out, and save you over a $1000.
If I were you I'd either get the lucky8 driveshaft and replace it myself, or buy the 120-$130 ones on eBay now and get a grease gun. It will probably take an hr to swap out, and save you over a $1000.
#23
07-23-2017, 05:52 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Woodstock, GA
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Since you are in the Atlanta area, check out Pull-A-Part for cheap used parts!
I was at 2 of their facilities in Lithonia and Norcross and they both had Discos with the front and rear drive shafts still attached. You'll need your own tools to remove them.
Keep in mind they are USED.
I was at 2 of their facilities in Lithonia and Norcross and they both had Discos with the front and rear drive shafts still attached. You'll need your own tools to remove them.
Keep in mind they are USED.
#24
07-23-2017, 08:56 AM
Super Moderator
I would only consider a Pick N Pull drive shaft for a 911 Emergency Trail Spare or if you already had the U-Joints to rebuild it, otherwise it's not worth it and I highly recommend going with a known good/new unit unless you wanna hear one horrific BOOM, and see you're D2 basically ruined by a 130.00 part.....
The D2 I'm working on right now has the following damage all due to a failed front drive shaft.
Fuel Line & Return Line cut
Huge Dent in the Floor
Y Pipe Broken at the Exhaust Manifold Flange with a dented Cat
Transfer Case is completely broken free from it's mounts and is resting on the cross-member
R/R O2 Sensor completely destroyed
4Hi/N/4Lo cable is torn
Transmission has about 1.5ft of it's casing completely missing.
So my advice is to not go the cheap route with a 25.00 Pick N Pull Drive Shaft. Also before installing the new shaft make sure and grease it. I've seen some actually come with barely any grease in them at all and I'm talking a $$$ vs an Ebay one.
The D2 I'm working on right now has the following damage all due to a failed front drive shaft.
Fuel Line & Return Line cut
Huge Dent in the Floor
Y Pipe Broken at the Exhaust Manifold Flange with a dented Cat
Transfer Case is completely broken free from it's mounts and is resting on the cross-member
R/R O2 Sensor completely destroyed
4Hi/N/4Lo cable is torn
Transmission has about 1.5ft of it's casing completely missing.
So my advice is to not go the cheap route with a 25.00 Pick N Pull Drive Shaft. Also before installing the new shaft make sure and grease it. I've seen some actually come with barely any grease in them at all and I'm talking a $$$ vs an Ebay one.
#26
07-23-2017, 01:23 PM
Super Moderator
"If" you've been running around on worn out U-Joints with slack in them it is "possible" for the Drive Shaft to have developed stress cracks around where the U-Joints seat. I've seen it happen with Jeeps. They had a bad U-Joint and finally replaced it, only to have an ear on the drive shaft itself tear off after it had developed a stress crack.
It's your D2, but the front drive shaft is not something I'd be cheap about. Fix it right and be done with it or don't be surprised when it grenades on you and leaves you parting out your D2 or selling it to your local LKQ Pick A Part Yard.
It's your D2, but the front drive shaft is not something I'd be cheap about. Fix it right and be done with it or don't be surprised when it grenades on you and leaves you parting out your D2 or selling it to your local LKQ Pick A Part Yard.
#27
07-24-2017, 04:53 AM
Baja
"If" you've been running around on worn out U-Joints with slack in them it is "possible" for the Drive Shaft to have developed stress cracks around where the U-Joints seat. I've seen it happen with Jeeps. They had a bad U-Joint and finally replaced it, only to have an ear on the drive shaft itself tear off after it had developed a stress crack.
It's your D2, but the front drive shaft is not something I'd be cheap about. Fix it right and be done with it or don't be surprised when it grenades on you and leaves you parting out your D2 or selling it to your local LKQ Pick A Part Yard.
It's your D2, but the front drive shaft is not something I'd be cheap about. Fix it right and be done with it or don't be surprised when it grenades on you and leaves you parting out your D2 or selling it to your local LKQ Pick A Part Yard.
#28
07-24-2017, 07:14 AM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 20
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I would only consider a Pick N Pull drive shaft for a 911 Emergency Trail Spare or if you already had the U-Joints to rebuild it, otherwise it's not worth it and I highly recommend going with a known good/new unit unless you wanna hear one horrific BOOM, and see you're D2 basically ruined by a 130.00 part.....
The D2 I'm working on right now has the following damage all due to a failed front drive shaft.
Fuel Line & Return Line cut
Huge Dent in the Floor
Y Pipe Broken at the Exhaust Manifold Flange with a dented Cat
Transfer Case is completely broken free from it's mounts and is resting on the cross-member
R/R O2 Sensor completely destroyed
4Hi/N/4Lo cable is torn
Transmission has about 1.5ft of it's casing completely missing.
So my advice is to not go the cheap route with a 25.00 Pick N Pull Drive Shaft. Also before installing the new shaft make sure and grease it. I've seen some actually come with barely any grease in them at all and I'm talking a $$$ vs an Ebay one.
The D2 I'm working on right now has the following damage all due to a failed front drive shaft.
Fuel Line & Return Line cut
Huge Dent in the Floor
Y Pipe Broken at the Exhaust Manifold Flange with a dented Cat
Transfer Case is completely broken free from it's mounts and is resting on the cross-member
R/R O2 Sensor completely destroyed
4Hi/N/4Lo cable is torn
Transmission has about 1.5ft of it's casing completely missing.
So my advice is to not go the cheap route with a 25.00 Pick N Pull Drive Shaft. Also before installing the new shaft make sure and grease it. I've seen some actually come with barely any grease in them at all and I'm talking a $$$ vs an Ebay one.
#29
07-29-2017, 01:28 PM
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 20
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Dear. God.
An immeasurable amount of space on this forum and others has been taken up discussing driveshafts.
First. STOP DRIVING THE TRUCK UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT. Ignoring this advice could easily mean you need to replace the transmission because the driveshaft lets go and beats a hole in the side of the transmission,
Second, never, ever get a replacement driveshaft from a Land Rover dealer. They sell only the POS original style that does not have greaseable U-joints. That is what contributes to them failing in the first place.
Third. For as much trouble as I have had with them call or write to lucky8llc.com. They are selling a fully greaseblel driveshaft at a price that makes it not worth it to try to rebuild the one you have.
Fourth. Once you replace the driveshaft be sure to grease it every time you do an oil change.
Fifth. Replacing the driveshaft is not a difficult task if you have basic hand tools. The price quoted by the dealer helps ensure their Caribbean retirement.
Good luck, and don't be afraid.
An immeasurable amount of space on this forum and others has been taken up discussing driveshafts.
First. STOP DRIVING THE TRUCK UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE FRONT DRIVESHAFT. Ignoring this advice could easily mean you need to replace the transmission because the driveshaft lets go and beats a hole in the side of the transmission,
Second, never, ever get a replacement driveshaft from a Land Rover dealer. They sell only the POS original style that does not have greaseable U-joints. That is what contributes to them failing in the first place.
Third. For as much trouble as I have had with them call or write to lucky8llc.com. They are selling a fully greaseblel driveshaft at a price that makes it not worth it to try to rebuild the one you have.
Fourth. Once you replace the driveshaft be sure to grease it every time you do an oil change.
Fifth. Replacing the driveshaft is not a difficult task if you have basic hand tools. The price quoted by the dealer helps ensure their Caribbean retirement.
Good luck, and don't be afraid.
#30
07-29-2017, 01:56 PM
Super Moderator
With the D2 on perfectly flat ground and the e-brake off I just get under it, and grab one of the front tires and gently roll the D2 forward/backward until they line up. You can push the yoke on the drive shaft in all the way so it gives you plenty of clearance. Then once it's lined up just extend the drive shaft over the bolts & you're good to go.
Some may find this technique risky, but when you don't have anyone else to help it beats climbing in/out from under it while you gently move it forward/backward.
Now if you have another person handy you can spot it while someone pushes it, but it'll still take a bit to get it exactly spot on.
As long as you're on 100% flat ground it shouldn't be hard at all to be under the D2 and gently rock it forward/backward to line them up.
Some may find this technique risky, but when you don't have anyone else to help it beats climbing in/out from under it while you gently move it forward/backward.
Now if you have another person handy you can spot it while someone pushes it, but it'll still take a bit to get it exactly spot on.
As long as you're on 100% flat ground it shouldn't be hard at all to be under the D2 and gently rock it forward/backward to line them up.
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