Driveshaft rebuild done!
#53
06-20-2013, 03:43 PM
Baja
I just confirmed with Neapco that Advance no longer carries any PDQ u-joints. 
PDQ was a line Neapco did solely for Advance. I'm trying to find out if they are doing any similar line for anyone else.
But - Neapco has not discontinued the 1-0005 (or 1-0154 as used on Series Rovers) in they Neapco box. So you can still get those from driveline shops that carry Neapco. Just now there is no price advantage, so the only reason to get them would be if you prefer the zerk in the end cap
I updated my propshaft rebuild post in the stickies.
PDQ was a line Neapco did solely for Advance. I'm trying to find out if they are doing any similar line for anyone else.
But - Neapco has not discontinued the 1-0005 (or 1-0154 as used on Series Rovers) in they Neapco box. So you can still get those from driveline shops that carry Neapco. Just now there is no price advantage, so the only reason to get them would be if you prefer the zerk in the end cap
I updated my propshaft rebuild post in the stickies.
Last edited by antichrist; 06-20-2013 at 03:53 PM.
#54
06-21-2013, 08:09 AM
Three Wheeling
#55
10-24-2013, 02:16 PM
Baja
Antmen,
I'm glad I'm not the only one who's having trouble with the Hookes cardan. I started mine yesterday and immediately hit problems stripping it down in removing the rusted in UJ's. The single differential UJ was a doddle to remove but then came the dreaded cardan. First of all the needle roller housings wouldn't move one iota after 10 years even after soaking them overnight in penetrating oil. Anyways, I finally got them out with some 'brutality' then today came the centering bearing. I made up a puller from a high tensile 8.8 bolt by grinding the head down to fit through the hole in the center bearing, I then ground a small slot in the shank next to the remainder of the head and inserted the 'contraption' into the center bearing and wedged it in place. I put a 28mm socket over the bolt with a heavy washer on top and then the nut which turns and theoretically pulls out the bearing. Hahaha, on the fifth attempt I managed to pull the ball clean out of the center of the bearing leaving the outer bearing ring in place although it had moved 1/8". Fortunately I managed to pull this ring out with the leg of a puller held with vice grips and enticed it out with a hammer. Luckily it came out very easily. I've cleaned up all of the parts with degreasant and tomorrow is D Day for re-assembly. I've put the center bearing in a wrapper in the freezer overnight together with a tub of high impact/high melting point grease to thicken it up ready to seal the needle rollers in place and press the bearing into the housing. One or two things I learned from stripping down the cardan is on re-assembly you need to insert the UJ spider before the caps with needle rollers otherwise with the centre bearing in place you cannot get sufficient angle to get either the cardan or flange onto the UJ spider. Another thing I learned was not to rotate the old center bearing upside down to push the washer out because there is another piece in there that jams the bearing upside down and you cannot rotate it back to the right way up. It took an hour of fiddling about, a wasted hour, to right the center bearing. I learned when stripping the cardan start at the flange first removing the UJ's and work along the shaft methodically and I guess re-assembly will be the reverse of this. It's a bit of a Chinese puzzle that you only learn by your mistakes - like doing a Rubiks Cube - the first time I was given the cube in 1980 by a French colleague I solved it in under three minutes (they were all gobsmacked), the second time it took me 3 days but ever since I've never been able to solve it as I usually get bored and give up.........sounds a bit like assembling a cardan joint only I cannot now give up on it. I'll post on here how I get on after tomorrow and any tips or pitfalls that I come across that may help others. As they say "if it smells like merde and tastes like merde don't step in it as be certain it is merde"........... Bon chance!
I'm glad I'm not the only one who's having trouble with the Hookes cardan. I started mine yesterday and immediately hit problems stripping it down in removing the rusted in UJ's. The single differential UJ was a doddle to remove but then came the dreaded cardan. First of all the needle roller housings wouldn't move one iota after 10 years even after soaking them overnight in penetrating oil. Anyways, I finally got them out with some 'brutality' then today came the centering bearing. I made up a puller from a high tensile 8.8 bolt by grinding the head down to fit through the hole in the center bearing, I then ground a small slot in the shank next to the remainder of the head and inserted the 'contraption' into the center bearing and wedged it in place. I put a 28mm socket over the bolt with a heavy washer on top and then the nut which turns and theoretically pulls out the bearing. Hahaha, on the fifth attempt I managed to pull the ball clean out of the center of the bearing leaving the outer bearing ring in place although it had moved 1/8". Fortunately I managed to pull this ring out with the leg of a puller held with vice grips and enticed it out with a hammer. Luckily it came out very easily. I've cleaned up all of the parts with degreasant and tomorrow is D Day for re-assembly. I've put the center bearing in a wrapper in the freezer overnight together with a tub of high impact/high melting point grease to thicken it up ready to seal the needle rollers in place and press the bearing into the housing. One or two things I learned from stripping down the cardan is on re-assembly you need to insert the UJ spider before the caps with needle rollers otherwise with the centre bearing in place you cannot get sufficient angle to get either the cardan or flange onto the UJ spider. Another thing I learned was not to rotate the old center bearing upside down to push the washer out because there is another piece in there that jams the bearing upside down and you cannot rotate it back to the right way up. It took an hour of fiddling about, a wasted hour, to right the center bearing. I learned when stripping the cardan start at the flange first removing the UJ's and work along the shaft methodically and I guess re-assembly will be the reverse of this. It's a bit of a Chinese puzzle that you only learn by your mistakes - like doing a Rubiks Cube - the first time I was given the cube in 1980 by a French colleague I solved it in under three minutes (they were all gobsmacked), the second time it took me 3 days but ever since I've never been able to solve it as I usually get bored and give up.........sounds a bit like assembling a cardan joint only I cannot now give up on it. I'll post on here how I get on after tomorrow and any tips or pitfalls that I come across that may help others. As they say "if it smells like merde and tastes like merde don't step in it as be certain it is merde"........... Bon chance!
Last edited by OffroadFrance; 10-24-2013 at 02:21 PM.
#56
10-28-2013, 03:40 PM
Baja
Hi
I've just, today, completed the rebuild of my D2 front propshaft (driveshaft) complete with new centre bearing. Having rebuilt engines, transfer and gearboxes in the past this task presented the most awkward and fiddly job I've ever undertaken it was so bad I nearly threw it all in the trash can and ordered a new complete driveshaft)
I had already assembled the cardan which wouldn't articulate properly, so I stripped it down again assuming I hadn't pressed the center bearing in far enough. So I dug out the 12 ton press and pressed the bearing and oil seal again. On closer inspection one of the needle rollers had become dislodged and was causing the problem,this needle roller had actually broken into two pieces, soooo, I had to fish through the trash bin (which was full of used kitty litter) to find an old needle roller. Having inserted this I started reassembling. I had attached the shaft to the cardan with the new UJ and then inserted the flange end UJ spider into the cardan with the needle caps but not fully pressed home. I then 'juggled' the flange end onto the UJ spider and believe me it goes on very easily. I then inserted one needle roller cap and moved the UJ spider into the cap. Now for the second UJ cap, bearing in mind you have to compress the center bearing spring slightly to slide the cap into place, so I wedged the UJ spider to the approximate center of the journal. I then carefully inserted the needle roller cap and slid the UJ spider half into it. Time to press home the eight UJ caps using a heavy duty G clamp. These UJ caps pressed in remarkably easily and then I carefully inserted the spring circlips checking for fit frequently of spring circlip before pressing so they didn't go in too far. The upshot is the job is finished and working perfectly now. I just have to re-install the driveshaft onto the truck.
Some TIPS learned the hard way!!!
1) Do not throw away any of the old UJ or center bearing parts until the job is complete.
2) Use an internal scraper to de-burr all of the journals after stripping and cleaning them (I also polished the journals internally using a Dremel and a very fine sanding wheel)
3) Ensure you have a suitable selection of good tools before you venture on this task, namely, a vertical press or heavy duty vice, circlip pliers both straight and 90 degree, a selection of needle punches, a hardened scriber (for cleaning the circlip grooves of rust and debris), a selection of G clamps or a custom UJ clamp, a good quality grease gun, preferably a compressor and airline and finally a book on bad language and an understanding wife/partner.
4) Do not rush the job and ensure the dismantled parts are spotlessly clean and dry.
5) My propshaft (driveshaft) didn't have a removable grease screw on the slider and it had a bellows over the single UJ shaft end so I had to remove the sliding shaft portion after undoing the bellows clip carefully then pump grease into the female shaft which incidentally was not splines but inline caged ball bearings running in longitudinal grooves. I then reset the bellows clip. (It is apparent that this arrangement is the latest of the D2 driveshafts and not intended for rebuilding but only total replacement)
6) Parts - use the best UJ's and center bearing available, I used GKN heavy duty UJ's (these have metal grease seals) with a GKN equivalent center bearing. http://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-...kit-2310-p.asp
7) Pay special attention to the needle rollers ensuring they are and remain in place, I did this by smearing additional grease around them and working it in between the needle rollers.
8) FIRST OF ALL - mark ALL mating parts with a center punch including the flanges on the truck so the parts are re-assembled exactly as they were before dismantling. ALWAYS double check you have marked everything for realignment later but don't use pencil or crayon
I hope this helps others and be assured don't go there if you have a short fuse and bad tempered otherwise you will go 'flip side'. GOOD LUCK AND I HOPE ALL GOES WELL
I've just, today, completed the rebuild of my D2 front propshaft (driveshaft) complete with new centre bearing. Having rebuilt engines, transfer and gearboxes in the past this task presented the most awkward and fiddly job I've ever undertaken it was so bad I nearly threw it all in the trash can and ordered a new complete driveshaft)
I had already assembled the cardan which wouldn't articulate properly, so I stripped it down again assuming I hadn't pressed the center bearing in far enough. So I dug out the 12 ton press and pressed the bearing and oil seal again. On closer inspection one of the needle rollers had become dislodged and was causing the problem,this needle roller had actually broken into two pieces, soooo, I had to fish through the trash bin (which was full of used kitty litter) to find an old needle roller. Having inserted this I started reassembling. I had attached the shaft to the cardan with the new UJ and then inserted the flange end UJ spider into the cardan with the needle caps but not fully pressed home. I then 'juggled' the flange end onto the UJ spider and believe me it goes on very easily. I then inserted one needle roller cap and moved the UJ spider into the cap. Now for the second UJ cap, bearing in mind you have to compress the center bearing spring slightly to slide the cap into place, so I wedged the UJ spider to the approximate center of the journal. I then carefully inserted the needle roller cap and slid the UJ spider half into it. Time to press home the eight UJ caps using a heavy duty G clamp. These UJ caps pressed in remarkably easily and then I carefully inserted the spring circlips checking for fit frequently of spring circlip before pressing so they didn't go in too far. The upshot is the job is finished and working perfectly now. I just have to re-install the driveshaft onto the truck.
Some TIPS learned the hard way!!!
1) Do not throw away any of the old UJ or center bearing parts until the job is complete.
2) Use an internal scraper to de-burr all of the journals after stripping and cleaning them (I also polished the journals internally using a Dremel and a very fine sanding wheel)
3) Ensure you have a suitable selection of good tools before you venture on this task, namely, a vertical press or heavy duty vice, circlip pliers both straight and 90 degree, a selection of needle punches, a hardened scriber (for cleaning the circlip grooves of rust and debris), a selection of G clamps or a custom UJ clamp, a good quality grease gun, preferably a compressor and airline and finally a book on bad language and an understanding wife/partner.
4) Do not rush the job and ensure the dismantled parts are spotlessly clean and dry.
5) My propshaft (driveshaft) didn't have a removable grease screw on the slider and it had a bellows over the single UJ shaft end so I had to remove the sliding shaft portion after undoing the bellows clip carefully then pump grease into the female shaft which incidentally was not splines but inline caged ball bearings running in longitudinal grooves. I then reset the bellows clip. (It is apparent that this arrangement is the latest of the D2 driveshafts and not intended for rebuilding but only total replacement)
6) Parts - use the best UJ's and center bearing available, I used GKN heavy duty UJ's (these have metal grease seals) with a GKN equivalent center bearing. http://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-...kit-2310-p.asp
7) Pay special attention to the needle rollers ensuring they are and remain in place, I did this by smearing additional grease around them and working it in between the needle rollers.
8) FIRST OF ALL - mark ALL mating parts with a center punch including the flanges on the truck so the parts are re-assembled exactly as they were before dismantling. ALWAYS double check you have marked everything for realignment later but don't use pencil or crayon
I hope this helps others and be assured don't go there if you have a short fuse and bad tempered otherwise you will go 'flip side'. GOOD LUCK AND I HOPE ALL GOES WELL
Last edited by OffroadFrance; 10-28-2013 at 04:05 PM.
#57
10-28-2013, 05:03 PM
Recovery Vehicle
I had already assembled the cardan which wouldn't articulate properly, so I stripped it down again assuming I hadn't pressed the center bearing in far enough. So I dug out the 12 ton press and pressed the bearing and oil seal again. On closer inspection one of the needle rollers had become dislodged and was causing the problem,this needle roller had actually broken into two pieces, soooo, I had to fish through the trash bin (which was full of used kitty litter) to find an old needle roller.
#58
10-31-2013, 02:49 PM
Baja
Hi Guys
Yesterday I finished the installation of the rebuilt driveshafts (propshafts - front and back). After I changed the engine oil and already had topped up the differentials and TX I took the D2 for a 'test run'. The noticeable things were there were no transmission 'clunks' at any stage and the driveshafts seemed smooth and totally in balance. IMO, although there was no apparent problems with the driveshafts apart from some cracking on the rotoflex coupling, these were causing the mystery vibrations and transmission 'clunks'. I have yet to take the D2 for a run on the autoroute at far higher speeds but so far all seems good and worthwhile. The next tasks are the 2x sunroof leaks PITA and headlining replacement both of which I'm not looking forward to doing.
Yesterday I finished the installation of the rebuilt driveshafts (propshafts - front and back). After I changed the engine oil and already had topped up the differentials and TX I took the D2 for a 'test run'. The noticeable things were there were no transmission 'clunks' at any stage and the driveshafts seemed smooth and totally in balance. IMO, although there was no apparent problems with the driveshafts apart from some cracking on the rotoflex coupling, these were causing the mystery vibrations and transmission 'clunks'. I have yet to take the D2 for a run on the autoroute at far higher speeds but so far all seems good and worthwhile. The next tasks are the 2x sunroof leaks PITA and headlining replacement both of which I'm not looking forward to doing.
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