Metric has never worked for me, I’ve just busted knuckles or rounded the nuts. A 9/16 open end works great (thinner head on tje closed side the better). I leave it on the ground in N and just push it forward or backwards a bit on a flat surface.

 

Mine has standard threads, when I replaced the marred up nylock nuts (from metric sockets/wrenches), I was surprised to find out that they were an American thread nut, I don't recall the size. I also jack up the front wheel, auto transmission in neutral with parking brake set.

 

Same here, from the factory the driveshaft bolt ( 509045 ) and nut ( NZ606041L ) have a 9/16" Hex Head with 3/8" UNF threads.

 

off topic here, but i think this is the first time i've ever seen non-metric referred to as "american" thread. most of the time people seem to call it the english system. i grew up calling it imperial.

 

I've called it "Standard" also? Maybe I'm just backwoods sometimes.... I think most will agree the metric system is better. The early 90's?? Maybe even the late 80's, here in the states was a tuff time wrenching on American cars, half the nuts/bolts are metric, while the others are whatever you want to call them....lol

 

I've always referred to them as SAE which I assumed has something to do with Standard but apparently it references the Society of Automotive Engineers, who set out to standardize hardware sizes a long time ago. 9/16" definitely fits better than a 14mm on the DS nuts, but it also depends on the quality of the wrench. The variance is about a hundredth of an inch so a cheapo 14 may fit better, but 9/16" is the way to go. And yes, just to confirm with all the others I changed mine without jacking the truck up.

 

Yes, SAE, I had a brain fart yesterday, and the day before.....

 

How tight should you do it ?

I bought a replacement bolt kit from BritPart because my bolts are from 2000. I wanna change em out but I don't have a gun.

 

Here's the spec from the RAVE. 35 ft/lbs.

 

whas that by hand