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Old Sep 28, 2022 | 11:59 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Inline thermostat housing with the port up sensor port is perfect place to put sensor.
What kind of port is that? 1/8" NPT?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2022 | 02:36 PM
  #72  
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1/4 npt
 
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Old Sep 28, 2022 | 03:49 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Mntnceguy
Unfortunately, the Derale controller won't work with that kind of sensor. I tried it, in fact it's still installed in the port, lol. The sensor was reading about 100 ohms lower in resistance than what was usable by the controller. Being more of a mechanical tinkerer than an electrical genius, I was unable to figure out how to remedy that. The Derale controller is already an adjustable unit, so adding resistors in line was likely to cause issues, or so I was told.



I got fans from a local yard I found on Car-Part.com, but PickNPull might be even cheaper some days, if they happen to have the right model show up. I was too anxious to wait.
For me, yea, the Derale is still what I'm running, and probably will be until I do an LS swap. After that I'll use the LS PCM to control them individually. I would assume a good relay style setup would also be a good, and maybe much cheaper option to the PWM style controllers. There really are no limits to what you can build, whatever suits your setup the best.
If you have a multi meter read the resistance of the probe at a reasonable ambient temperature. You should get a number like 10,000 ohms, or close to a nice round number, then you can buy an acceptable probe.
How to Test a Thermistor
 
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Old Sep 28, 2022 | 05:07 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Sandman614
If you have a multi meter read the resistance of the probe at a reasonable ambient temperature. You should get a number like 10,000 ohms, or close to a nice round number, then you can buy an acceptable probe.
How to Test a Thermistor
Lol, yea, did all that, was unable to find a probe that would read within the same specs as the stick on sensor that the controller was made to work with. Testing both sensors while at the same temperature, the probe style one will read 4.7kohm, while the stick on style will read 16.5kohm. That make more sense? I thought it would be an easy swap too, but I learned different...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2023 | 08:36 AM
  #75  
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I'm going to start gathering parts for this mod. I have an '03 with the inline thermostat so when I run a 180 in the winter it starts to throw codes for not warming up quickly enough. Electric fans on a controller should help deal with that.
Some slight confusion over exactly what I'm looking for though. The OP says to use P/N DG9Z-8C607-D but then a few posts in we get someone saying that doesn't fit and to use DG9Z-8C607-J instead. When I look for parts I see some with the fan wires going in two directions (lower left and top right, when viewed from the front) and others only have one set of wires (lower left).

Which one should I get?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2023 | 01:36 PM
  #76  
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And a question on fan control: aside from varying the speed of the fan(s) in response to temperature, what is the advantage of a fan controller over, say, using the voltage from the main and secondary cooling fans to trigger relays that power the fans on this setup?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2023 | 08:15 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by mollusc
I'm going to start gathering parts for this mod. I have an '03 with the inline thermostat so when I run a 180 in the winter it starts to throw codes for not warming up quickly enough. Electric fans on a controller should help deal with that.
Some slight confusion over exactly what I'm looking for though. The OP says to use P/N DG9Z-8C607-D but then a few posts in we get someone saying that doesn't fit and to use DG9Z-8C607-J instead. When I look for parts I see some with the fan wires going in two directions (lower left and top right, when viewed from the front) and others only have one set of wires (lower left).

Which one should I get?
DG9Z-8C607-D is the correct one to use

Originally Posted by mollusc
And a question on fan control: aside from varying the speed of the fan(s) in response to temperature, what is the advantage of a fan controller over, say, using the voltage from the main and secondary cooling fans to trigger relays that power the fans on this setup?
If I understand your question correctly, one of the major advantages of using a controller instead of relays, is that there will be no large voltage spikes through the system when the fans turn on. Both options will do the job, but because this is an older classic vehicle, with known electrical issues throughout it's systems, I chose not to put added stress on it, but that was simply my own preference. Others have used relays, and yet others who use this fan setup on their LS swapped vehicles, control the fans with the LS computer. Any option will do....
 
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Old Feb 24, 2023 | 08:26 PM
  #78  
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Thought those who subscribed to this thread might like a lil update on the fuel mileage I've been seeing over the last 9 months....I seem to be averaging about 14 to 14.5mpg, driving around the Denver area, mostly in town, with some occasional hwy.

Also, since moving the temp sensor for my controller to the water pump neck, my setup has worked flawlessly, in all weather conditions. Couldn't be happier...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2023 | 05:34 PM
  #79  
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@Mntnceguy Its been a few months since install. How you liking your Derale fan controller? Would you still recommend it? Which model did you end up getting? I only see 16797 as PWM on their website but searching around pulls up some other pwm controllers from them and I'm not sure the exact differences. Looking to get something rigged up because my OEM shroud is broken and causing some high temps.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2023 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by andino
@Mntnceguy Its been a few months since install. How you liking your Derale fan controller? Would you still recommend it? Which model did you end up getting? I only see 16797 as PWM on their website but searching around pulls up some other pwm controllers from them and I'm not sure the exact differences. Looking to get something rigged up because my OEM shroud is broken and causing some high temps.
IIR, mine was model 16796 (still available today on Amazon), but the new model looks to be a bit improved? Looks like the new model has a 20 sec shut off timer when the engine shuts off, while mine will just keep running as long it needs. I used to worry about that draining my battery, but it's been well over a year now, and I've never had a problem. I find it also has the benefits of eliminating any and all heat soak from the engine after shut off, as my fans keep running and cooling the engine via thermal conductivity.

What model you use is entirely up to you, but for myself, I kinda like the old model that lets the fans run when the engine is off. Only real tip I could offer, no matter which model you use, is to mount the temp sensor on the water pump inlet neck. Zip tie and tape it on both, and you'll get the quickest and most reliable readings to control the fans with the least lag time to turn them on/off.

Other than that, I would say this has been one of my favorite mods on my D2, fixed soooo many issues the thing had, for cheap, and has been incredibly reliable, couldn't be happier
 

Last edited by RA122125; Sep 18, 2023 at 06:33 PM.
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