Woops, I looked at your graphs, but replied over on the other thread you posted this on, so there's more there.

I suggested it looks like your radiator is either clogged, but more likely could use some shrouding to funnel the air thru it at high speeds.

I asked if your radiator temp drop readings were done with the fans running or off? A 20 degree drop when under load is considered normal.

It also looks to me in some of your graphs, that your fans are slow to come on, and shut off to early as well. Not sure if that'd be a temp sensor placement thing, or a calibration problem with your brand of controller. It just doesn't look like they come on/off when they should to me, makes me wonder why

 

I've been doing head gaskets and engine seals lately, hope to finish it up soon, but haven't been driving it. Although my setup was working fine at the time, I thought I'd reseal the engine before anything went wrong, rather than later. It had lots of oil leaks, and some bad workmanship that was bugging me, so I decided to just go thru it and fix whatever I found. Been taking me longer than I had planned, but that seems normal for these old things...

If you could control yours thru the engine computers, seems to me that'd be about perfect! If you make that work properly, I'd definitely be interested in seeing what you did. I believe I remember reading about some PWM controllers for Corvettes that work with the LS engine computer. I stored that info vaguely in the back of my mind for further research later if I did the LS swap, so take it for what its worth and maybe look into it, may be an easy setup to use if you already swapped your rig.

 

Sounds like you are in the middle of quite the project. My fan should be in Friday maybe. There is only a single plug for both fans on the fusion setup correct? My factory discovery electric fan is seized, so I was hoping I could wire one fan up to that Land Rover control and the other to the GM PCM. I was mostly just thinking for lower current draw when one kicks on over both at the same time. Then again if I can get the 2nd fan control working with tunerpro (free gm tuning software) I can make them independent anyway if the fans are parallel 12v. We'll see.

 

There's obviously lots of options available on how to wire them up and control the fans, whatever works best for you and your needs.

Here's a link to a thread I started on an easy way to replace a seized condenser fan, and for cheap too...https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...option-112156/

 

Here's what my fusion fan looked like after some trimming to fit my 5.3 swapped discovery 2. I wired one of the fans to the factory condenser fan wiring (condenser fan was seized). The other fan I'll trigger off the gm pcm most likely. I'm going to make an upper shroud deal this week because using the factory one doesn't look like it's going to be easy with me radiator hose and intake all right there.


We'll see how cooling goes, but with only one fan running it stayed about 195 with the AC on (duh, because that's what triggers the fan at low temps) in 95ish degree weather while idling. The hood was off and the upper shroud wasn't in place.


Oh and the fan setup is super close to the power steering pump on the gm engine setup. I have maybe 1/4-3/8".

 

Hey guys, this was a great idea and im hoping for some real differences here in hell TX. I installed a Hayden duel fan wiring kit but have been blowing on of the fans fuses right away when ac is turned on. The kit only uses 1 relay, would that be my problem by chance? Should I be using 2 relays? Thanks for any help.

 

Sorry, wish I could be more help, but I don't have any experience with a Hayden dual fan wiring kit, or with how you would be wiring it that would cause the A/C to interact with it (my A/C still uses its normal fan in front of the condenser). Do your fans work normally when you don't run your A/C? Have you tried to ask the manufacturer if they have better instructions, or a spec sheet so you can see if you are using the product the way they designed it (ie: not drawing more power than it was designed to provide, everything wired properly)?

Also, if you don't mind, be sure to post up what you figure out, for those who run into similar issues in the future. You are the first one I know of to use the Hayden relays, so I'm curious how they work out with the D2 electrical system...

 

Thanks Mntnceguy, I did get 2 relays (1 per fan) and no more fuse issues buuuuut, when not using AC the fans will not come on at the default temp of 185 as the thermostat should do with these Hayden wire kits

 

That sounds to me like your main trigger to turn on the fan relays is coming from the A/C, rather than the ignition, but again, I am not familiar with the Hayden controller set up at all.

I got out and drive mine more today, in the Colorado mile high 95 degree weather....and boy howdy do these fans work good. Did a bunch of around town driving in slow traffic, and never went above 190 engine temp. I drove around with my A/C off today, just to see if the Rover would heat soak or have issues by itself, and it did not, at all, no matter how much I pushed it. I find that the A/C seems to add 10-15 degrees to my engine temps, and the fans handle that as well, although I still don't much like it being at 205-210, even though it was designed to run at that temp. Now that I've got my engine all sealed up nice, head studs done, and no leaks anywhere, I'll probably be more comfortable with the higher temps when using the A/C. Either way, the Fusion fans seem to work great in all situations I have attempted so far, and I'm getting more and more comfortable referring folks to this modification for their Rovers.

 

Sounds good. I drove today with the ac on and was sitting around 208ish. It is 101 now but feels like 103. I also may still have air in the system. I have thge wires in the right place but using the cig lighter for the ign 12v. Not sure how reliable that is. Just gotta situate that and clean up the wiring job