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So gave up on the thermostat wiring and installed the ac clutch wire to a 12 v so the fans run when the key is turned. In Oct ill change it to a switch. Seems to be holding tight in the 90s without ac and low 200s with ac on.
So gave up on the thermostat wiring and installed the ac clutch wire to a 12 v so the fans run when the key is turned. In Oct ill change it to a switch. Seems to be holding tight in the 90s without ac and low 200s with ac on.
Do you mean the fans come on immediately when you turn your key on, or they have power but are still regulated by the temp sensor? I ask, because if they are coming on before you start the vehicle, that may cause power spikes, and wear out components like your starter and alternator, or cause other issues, especially if they are coming on at 100% all at once
I finally got both my fans and added a universal 12" to fan in place of the condenser fan. It's really cool that I can adjust both fusion fans with the gm pcm independently.
Before when I just had the two fusion fan setup with no condenser fan it was able to survive a very hot and long 20 minute wait on the in n out drive thru with around 97* temp outside with the AC on. It only started to get toasty right at the end. I'm not sure if my breaker tripped or what because it held constant temp for 15 minutes.
I could use a bit better shroud on the top and the condenser fan being installed now should help too. I think this setup can keep a higher compression/ cammed LM7 cool in a Disco 2! How that relates to the rover 4.6 I don't know.
I finally got both my fans and added a universal 12" to fan in place of the condenser fan. It's really cool that I can adjust both fusion fans with the gm pcm independently.
Before when I just had the two fusion fan setup with no condenser fan it was able to survive a very hot and long 20 minute wait on the in n out drive thru with around 97* temp outside with the AC on. It only started to get toasty right at the end. I'm not sure if my breaker tripped or what because it held constant temp for 15 minutes.
I could use a bit better shroud on the top and the condenser fan being installed now should help too. I think this setup can keep a higher compression/ cammed LM7 cool in a Disco 2! How that relates to the rover 4.6 I don't know.
That's good info, I know more than a few have wondered how it would do with the LS conversion.
These fans are almost too much cooling for the 4.6L...almost, lol. Thankfully, it's extremely controllable, unlike the clutch fan was.
That's good info, I know more than a few have wondered how it would do with the LS conversion.
These fans are almost too much cooling for the 4.6L...almost, lol. Thankfully, it's extremely controllable, unlike the clutch fan was.
Too much fan is like too much power. I'd say anything to keep the 4.6 cool is pretty awesome. Control and low speed cooling is exactly what I was looking forward to. That and mounting the electric setup was a lot easier than cobbling the factory shroud around the gm engine and intake.
So I decided to try moving my temp sensor to a new location, just to see how it does, and I'm glad I did. I moved my temp sensor to the inlet of the water pump where there's a nice metal flat spot to mount the sensor on. It works much better than on the radiators rubber hose at the outlet. It senses the temp more accurately, comes on and off quicker, and now keeps my running temps right at the sweet spot where the thermostat stays open so the coolant can flow.
So for anyone doing this mod with the Derale stick on type sensor in the future, who do not have a radiator with aluminum side tanks to mount the temp sensor to, mounting the sensor on the aluminum water pump inlet, works quite well.
I moved my temp sensor to the inlet of the water pump where there's a nice metal flat spot to mount the sensor on. It works much better than on the radiators rubber hose at the outlet. It senses the temp more accurately, ...
This makes sense, since rubber is not a good thermal conductor. I would even prefer a hose adapter with a thread for a temperature sender. Then the sender is directly immersed into coolant which is the most accurate way to measure.
Dang. Another mod that ultimately looks like I need to do. Frees up horsepower you say? This thing needs all the get-up and go it can muster. Now, I just need the PickNPull to have one of its 50% off sales.
Is the Derale controller still the go-to?
Inline thermostat housing with the port up sensor port is perfect place to put sensor.
Unfortunately, the Derale controller won't work with that kind of sensor. I tried it, in fact it's still installed in the port, lol. The sensor was reading about 100 ohms lower in resistance than what was usable by the controller. Being more of a mechanical tinkerer than an electrical genius, I was unable to figure out how to remedy that. The Derale controller is already an adjustable unit, so adding resistors in line was likely to cause issues, or so I was told.
Originally Posted by JoshD
Dang. Another mod that ultimately looks like I need to do. Frees up horsepower you say? This thing needs all the get-up and go it can muster. Now, I just need the PickNPull to have one of its 50% off sales.
Is the Derale controller still the go-to?
I got fans from a local yard I found on Car-Part.com, but PickNPull might be even cheaper some days, if they happen to have the right model show up. I was too anxious to wait.
For me, yea, the Derale is still what I'm running, and probably will be until I do an LS swap. After that I'll use the LS PCM to control them individually. I would assume a good relay style setup would also be a good, and maybe much cheaper option to the PWM style controllers. There really are no limits to what you can build, whatever suits your setup the best.