after a bit of research and testing I have decided to install an electric water pump. should arrive today. Hoping to stab it in, by this weekend. I have run them before, as stand alone units. I am going to start this one as an aux. booster, for now. I shall see how it goes. If it performs as it should, I can have the option to dump the stock tsat and water pump.
reason for going this route is that I hate reading the fluctuations in my temps. never "high" but after a recent water pump replacement, I cruise, at any speed, 182ish and while setting it sometimes surges up to 197. that is a big jump and about 11 degrees higher than before the pump exchange. if i raise rpms at all to speed pump, it drops back down rapidly. I am not concerned with the fan, because external temps make zero change in my engine temp. conditions. radiator is good top to bottom and clutch is new also. I did have some issues with a new lr gen. tsat, but I sorted that out. It will be nice to have the option of dumping it though.
product that I chose is the davies craig ewp 115 alloy with a thermatic switch and a manual override switch. It will turn off at 180 with engine on or off to fight heat soak. I have never used this product, that is why it is starting as a booster. I have used inline Meziere pumps. those where fine but bulky and limited in the install options (motor has to be upright and is about 8"x4") so thats out.
I will use this thread as a type of review of the outcome. and if anyone has any input before I hook this thing up, please, do tell.

 

That's a pretty interesting idea.

I would keep the pump running no matter what.

You may run across some unforeseen conditions which heat up the engine even more. I would be on the look out for those.

Or, save the project until the summer.
If you are seeing high temp in the winter cold, then radiator plugged and t-stat is not the 180.

 

Okay, you got my attention. Although I think your temps look pretty good, as a fellow Texan I am always interested in making my truck run as cool as possible for when that summer heat kicks in. Also, the part about the pump running to cool it even while the engine is off is really interesting to me. I have noticed that on hot summer days I'll stop after driving and turn the engine off with a temp of about 197 and when I get back in and fire it up the temp gauge reads as high as 216 sometimes for a few seconds until the coolant starts flowing. I have always thought that it could cause extra wear on the engine from sitting so hot while off.


Good luck and please take plenty of pictures and keep us updated.

 

Yep, the heat soak part is a big reason. The big reason for wanting to dump the existing pump, as opposed to keeping both is the tstat. The switch on the electric pump can be set at any temp. So removal would be ideal, but then the mechanical pump will not have needed restriction. So that be a bit of a hiccup. I have the needed parts for inline stat. I will play with that first. It is idle and soak that I wish to combat, no clog or slow flow.
I will start with 180 stat in the inline housing and set the new pump at 185ish.
Sounds like a good place to start,right? I can adjust the e pump to anything, but the mechanical stat will need be sorted out, first. I could leave the by pass stat set up alone. It is not a must to remove it. But the bypass part is working against my goal of good flow at low pressure/rpms, IMO

 

gotta be the stat, right?
did the inline thing. couple of questions, if any inliners reading.
1. what is with the shroud cutting and extra hose? I'm sure I missed something, but I did neither. are they just another option....pics attached if it helps. e pump will go in original stat spot.
2. temp is getting to 170 and that is it. I put a 180 stant in and double checked it is 180. drilled 2 1/8" holes for air (probably not needed, I have air relieves on both sides) all driving /idling conditions= 170.
`so try 180 with no holes or smaller hole? go 190?
my goal is 185 with the smallest variance possible. so theoretically a 180 stat and the electric pump set at 185 makes perfect sense? that would have my traditional pump pushing flow at 180 and the e pump kicking in at 185 when needed and at shutdown.
` am I missing something? does 180 begin to open at a lower temp and fully at 180?

 

I'm doing this same mod tomorrow. My Disco runs between 197 and 206 with outside
temps below 50. Seems like the factory water pump doesn't do much at idle.
The nice thing about this mod is that you can easily change thermostats with little
coolant loss and the t-stats themselves are less than $10. If the 180 degree runs too cool
I'll try a 190 for the remainder of winter. Very interested in learning more about an external electric water pump.

 

for just the inline mod alone this seems to be ideal
Meziere Enterprises

 

Just wondering, if you dump the factory water pump, how will you get heat when the e pump isn't running?

Regarding the temp issue, I don't think the variation you are seeing is such a big deal although I'm surprised to see it got worse with a new pump. Did you get a quality pump or a high flow one?. I'm running a motorad 180 with the OEM setup and my temps vary maybe 5 degrees.

 

Yep the best pump I could find for it. If the mechanical pump is removed the new one will be pushing through the same way just efficiently, so heat is no issue. And after today I am convinced that the bypass was the reason for my fluctuations . I am also convinced that a 1" shut off valve placed in that bypass line, to control the flow, would have been a much easier way to control the fluctuations.

 

I was under the impression that you would pull the thermostat and use this pump and its thermostatic control instead which would only turn on the pump when hot.